Need help w/ Power Window Problem - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-04-2013, 07:13 PM   #1
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Default Need help w/ Power Window Problem

1994 Olds 88

Problem:
Driver'* side switch will only put passenger window UP, but not down.
Passenger side window switch does NOTHING.

I measured the voltage at the driver'* side switch at the passenger switch, and when moved up/ down, the voltage polarity changes properly (i.e., UP makes +12v, and DOWN makes -12v as measured at the TAN and LtBlue wires).

Going over to the passenger side, and measuring the voltage at the passenger window switch at the TAN and LtBlue wires produces +12 when the driver'* side switch is moved in one direction (and will make the passenger window go UP), but produces NOTHING when the driver'* side switch is moved in the opposite direction, and indeed the window won't go down.

Using the passenger side switch produces NO voltage (when moved in either up or down) at the motor connector at all (and of course, the window doesn't move either way).

To verify proper motor operation, I disconnected the plug AT the motor, and applied voltage from an auxiliary battery, and the window will go both up AND down when the polarity of the 12v source is applied and reversed, so teh motor is GOOD.

Does this "ring any bells" with what a probable cause could be? At first, I wondered if one of the wires between sides was "open," but of course it THAT were true, the window wouldn't operate in ANY direction from the driver'* switch, but it does (goes only up).

I'd unplug the passenger side switch from it'* wire bundle to check the voltages w/o that switch being hooked up, but not sure how to do that. The two plastic clips when opened a tad do not allow the switch to separate from the terminals, and I am afraid that if I do it wrong, I'll have internal switch parts (balls, springs) all over the ground.

On the switch, there are two Dark Blue wires, a Brown wire, a Tan wire and a LtBlue wire (Note: The Driver'* Side Passenger Window Switch produce +/-12v to Tan and LtBlue wires just like the colors on the passenger side window switch).

Makes me wish I still had the full GM manual set (about 20 pounds of them) that I let go when I sold my '96 Bonneville. DAMN!

Here'* a photo of the switch w/ arrows at the clips I was referring to. Are their other ones I am missing? This is a Copy and Paste link (probably):

2013-07-04_1700 - bobinyelm'* library
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Old 07-05-2013, 07:53 PM   #2
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I think that all the power windows route thru the master driver'* window control switches. Verify that all the connectors are firmly plugged into that switch block first.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:42 PM   #3
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The connectors are SO firmly pushed in, I was unable to remove, or even make them BUDGE.

Interestingly, while the master switch gave exactly the right readings for the passenger switch (reversing polarity with switch position reversal) only the "UP" signal was reaching the passenger window.

Put the whole thing back together last night, and Shazam, the driver'* window switch would run the passenger window both ways. OK, so that'* half fixed, but the passenger switch still did nothing.

Got in today and BOTH switches are working PERFECTLY.

Now this is after having the doors apart for a week futzing around! The passenger door regulator arms that are spot-welded together had broken apart, causing the window to drop forward at a 45 deg angle. Managed to drill holes and make fillet-welds w/ a MIG that repaired the mechanism, but that did nothing if the electrics wouldn't run the motor, of course.

I have NO idea how the system fixed itself, but it'* working now, fingers-crossed.
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