My apoligies, thisdid not mean rip out all of the wires for the remote starter.

This was meant to encourage a search for those little buggers.

Hmmm. Whose remote are you using at the moment: the original GM, or the one that came with the remote starter? Reason I ask is that the GM unit will use its own controller to pop the trunk; the aftermarket unit uses a completely-different setup that involves using a third-party relay to inject a separate power source into the circuit leading to the trunk solenoid. I have a feeling your third-party controller is going wonky on you.

ummm...... confuzed with a different person Andy

I have no remote start, and yes the remote is the one that came with the one from the factory

I need some clairification.....Does your car have OEM keyless entry ?

My car does something similar, when the button jams on the factory remote and the remote is in proximity to the car.

You might want to drop the under-dash (drivers side) and take a look at the wiring of the remote starter.

Do you know the model # of your Command Start ?
Do you have any manuals for it ? If not I should be able to get my hands on one.

I work as an automotive electronic tech and I'm always fixing other peoples screw ups. Alot of people in my trade are butchers as well as mechanics.

Sounds to me like you have a bad connection or a short somewere. My advice drop the dash and take a look.
If you don't feel comfortable playing with the electrical system take it to Future Shop'* Install Bay and have them take a look. Command Start is one of their product lines.

Hope this helps,

Dutch
MECP & Licensed 310K,
Automotive Electronic Accessory Tech

Thanks for all of your help so far guys. It sounds like it'* a Command Start wiring thing for sure. I'm not all that wiring savvy, but I should be able to figure this one out. I'll have a look today, take some pics, and post what I find up here late.

Thanks again!

Yeah, focus on the wires between the Command Start box and the Lock and Unlock connections. If nothing else looks obviously wrong, try disconnecting the Command Start'* connections with the power lock system; the others can stay untouched.

One thing that might be a complication here, or not: There is an additional wire connected to the Unlock side that the remote starter must ground before it can start the engine. This is the Factory Alarm Shutdown Circuit, which must be grounded so that the VATS box knows that the car has been unlocked with a key. On my car, mine connects to the Light Green wire attached to the outside lock cylinder inside the driver'* door.

When the remote starter grounds this wire, it unlocks the car. If your remote starter is going slightly flaky and grounding its alarm shutdown circuit when it doesn't need to, you might hear your locks cycling like that.

So aside from the accessory leads that connect to the power-lock system to let you lock or unlock the car whenever you want, there is also the Factory Alarm Shutdown Wire that'* unlocking the car in the course of starting it. So you'll probably find one wire connected to an inside door lock control on the Lock side, another connected to an inside door lock control on the Unlock side, but also look for a third wire that'* connected to an outside door lock wire someplace.

Correction.............I'm not sure about Future Shop actually I think its Best Buys product. Those guys should be able to give you an Install manual with the wiring diagrams. That should make things a little easier.
The lock and unlock wires on most alarms & starters are usually Green and Blue wires (very small gauge) on a small plug on the side of the unit. They probably are wired to two standard SPDT Relays. One will be a Lock and the other an Unlock and from there wired into your factory relay that you showed a picture of.

Good luck,
Dutch

I just found some info for you.
There seems to be some discrepency as to the wire colors & the location, that are used to control the power door locks with a Remote Start or Alarm.

For 92-94 SSE OR SSEi
Lock = Yellow ( - )
Unlock = Light Green ( - )

Both can be found in the drivers kick panel. Make sure to test carefully as these wires require a Negative pulse to Lock or Unlock.
Also the Factory Alarm is controled with these wires as well.

I think what may have happened is that someone thought that they knew a short cut when installing your Remote Starter, and went to the factory Relay instead of using the proper wires.

My advice find the Remote Starter and look for the Blue & Green wires (usually on a small plug on the side) and follow them and see were they are connected.

Hope this helps,
Dutch

I think some people may have been referring to the colors of the aftermarket box wires (which could of course be _anything_, depending on what brand it is). What you're giving here are the correct colors of the factory wiring.

Ayup. In actual fact, I found it easier to run my aftermarket box wires into the driver'* door along with the factory wiring (there'* plenty of room for a couple more 2-conductor wires through the rubber boot in the door jamb), and make the connections for Lock, Unlock, Trunk Release and Factory Alarm Shutdown (FASD) right there in the door.

I connected my Lock and Unlock wires to the wiring at the inside door lock switch (factory colors of Light Blue and Black respectively, and yes, that particular Black wire is a circuit wire, _not_ a ground wire), which in hindsight was a mistake, because the factory alarm won't arm when the car is locked that way _unless_ the door is open at the time (on the theory that the driver is getting out). When I get some free time, I plan to open up the door again and move those connections to the Yellow and Light Green wires at the outside door lock instead. (The Light Green wire at the outside lock is the FASD connection point, too.) Connecting there will always arm the alarm system when locking the car, since the car thinks it'* being locked with a key from the outside.

Yes, the aftermarket box should be driving the car'* lock controller, to simulate how the driver would push the buttons himself, rather than trying to bypass the controller and drive the relays directly. If you do it that way, you may get some weird behavior from a confused controller that'* seeing voltage or grounding occurring downstream, on relays that it'* supposed to be controlling itself.

I agree!