I don’t really have anything to add to this thread, but since I’m having some problems with my ATC I thought I’d ask a question and post it here instead of starting a new thread. 98SSE didn’t say how or when his problem with the stupid air mix motor manifested itself, but I know when mine did and as I’ve been digging into what I need to do to correct the problem I’ve noticed similar symptoms from others.

Has anyone else noticed that, quite often, folks will experience this problem after the battery was disconnected for some reason? That’* what happened to me. Had to change the starter (180K on the original, BTW) and after it was put back together I got the dreaded flashing temperature display from the ATC. Naturally I went straight to the Bonneville forum and found the procedure for ATC diagnostics. My system was reporting a 52 (Keep Alive Memory lost; sets with battery disconnected) and 40 (Driver Air Mix Motor circuit open or shorted, or not calibrated). Seems odd to me that merely disconnecting the battery would lead to a short or an open, so I’m hoping that I can calibrate the thing according to directions posted in the forum and fix the problem that way.

Anyway, I’m thinking that maybe some air mix motors are being changed when they’re not actually faulty but just need to be reset if the problem occurs after the battery was disconnected. Something to ponder.

Yes! It happened also to me when I removed my battery cable (twice over couple of years, but recently in March). After days of ECC flashing, it finally got tired of pestering me, and gave up flashing. It also started to work properly at the same time. I could get some heat by starting the heater at low setting and then moving it up (usually more than where I would normally have it).

I am so afraid of taking the battery cable off that I reset the ECU codes by pulling the fuse, and recently replaced my rad without taking the battery cable off.

BTW, I think I understand how to solve GM electric problems: ignore it long enough and they will go away. It almost seems like a pissing contest between the car and the driver.

I don’t drive the SSE as much as my wife does (it’* her’* – and to think she wanted a MINI VAN when I bought it for her), but she claims it will blow hot air for several seconds before it starts blowing cooler air when she first starts it up. Claims it didn’t start doing this until the blinking ECC (electronic climate control) display started. So while I was driving it the other evening I cranked the temp up to 90, then down to max cool, then up again, and down. It seems OK to me, but I forgot to check it right after starting. I think I’ll take your advice, Faisalmali, and ignore it for a while and hope it goes away. If it doesn’t, I’ll calibrate the door & motor. Then go for the wretched air mix motor if it’* still not happy. Or maybe not. Maybe I’ll just deal with the ECC blinking at me for a minute or so and just give it the finger until it quits.

I’ve found that you can perform maintenance on mechanical parts similar to your concept for electrical problems. Turn the radio up loud enough and those rattles and knocks just go away.

Hey-
Great info. I can see myself now driving in FL with my WINDOWS UP!!!! One thing though...
How in the hell were you able to tie a wire on that thingy...My hands are to big (you know what they say....hehehe)...Did you remove something to get to the actuator???
HELP!! My Bonnie really is 2 hot.

Our 94 SSE was flashing, starting last summer. Air worked most of the time. Heat worked all the time, even when we wanted A/C.

I took out the center console and dash last month to get to the actuator. Don't see how life is easier without taking out the dash. Just some bolts here and there. I followed Chilton'* sevice manual to the letter.

Anyway, replaced the actuator, calibrated it, air works great but not super cold. Added refrigerant, works better. Think I need to add more, possible leak.

I dissected the old actuator and the last internal gear (all plastic, ugh!) attached to the spindle arm on the outside of the unit was cracked so it would slip as it wanted to turn the arm attached to the door rod. So, it would work intermittently. Makes sense. Sometimes it would grip, mostly it wouldn't. New one'* in, works great. Cost me $37 total from gmpartsdirect.com. Had to wait for the part though. About a week and a half.

Everything is fine now.

In my opinion, if the negative battery cable is disconnected to shut off power to work on the car to prevent bad stuff from happening to most electronic equipment, modules, etc. will not need to be reset except for the stereo presets, etc.

If anybody is having problems with electronic components after the cable is reinstalled, seems to me something isn't or wasn't right to begin with. Sounds strange, not impossible, just odd.

Later.

Whew!!! Got it! My massive hands were a bit of a hinderance, but after figuring out that a wire hanger would work better than a guitar string it was litterally a breeze... Thanks, I love this site... My Bonnie is still hot but the AC blows cold!

HA! My wife says the ECC got tired of being ignored and quit blinking. And it stopped blowing hot air before the A/C kicked in - now it starts out cold as soon as the car is started, just like it used to (just like normal). I need to use this troubleshooting technique more often!

For what it'* worth, here'* what I've deduced based on what I've gleaned out of the forum:
1. Disconnecting battery cables can cause the ECC display to start blinking. Yeah, I know disconnecting the battery cables shouldn't affect the ECC, but it appears to be possible.
2. If, upon reconnecting the battery cables, your ECC start flashing and produces the codes for memory lost and air door calibration required, you may save yourself a bit of trouble by ignoring the flashing display for a few days. I don't recommend ignoring warning lights as a rule, but it seems that given enough time this particular problem may correct itself. It'* worth a try.
3. Quite possibly some air door motors may have been replaced when they didn't need it. If the battery was disconnected and the ECC started reporting the error codes I mentioned "out of the blue" and you immediately went after the air door motor, you may have invented a lot of new cuss words for nothing.

Certainly these conclusions are derived from some very unscientific data and a lot of conjecture was used, buuuuut, my ECC is working just fine now. All it cost me was a little patience, and I can save those choice cuss words for a more worthy problem!

Thanks for the great info! This forum is awesome. SSE Motorhead, I wanted to add to your non-scientific data collection. I too got the dreaded flashing climate control display 3 days ago. Here'* what led up to the problem:
1) disconnected the battery
2) replaced upper and lower intake gaskets and gave everything a good scrub
3) installed 'ken-co' egr stove pipe
4) installed a new alternator
5) changed oil
6) changed coolant
7) connected the battery
When I first started it up, the climate control display started flashing. I checked out the control arm for the air mixer and started it again. The arm started at cold (left side), slides over to hot (right side), waits about 30 seconds and then comes back to the cold side again. I thought it was weird so I observed the whole process 5 more times on different days. It does the same thing every time and the display flashes while it goes cold-hot-cold.
I'll post again when the problem is solved. Sorry if I tend to get wordy, I've only had the car for 6 months so I'm not very familiar with it yet.
Oh, and many thanks to randman for all the great pics!

Lou...I'd disconnect the battery and give it a chance to cool it'* heels.