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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-16-2003, 12:05 AM   #1
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Default Need Brake Help!!!!!!!

I have a 1992 Buick Park Ave. Recently it seems like it takes a little more force to stop the car. Also the brake pedal feels like the ABS is comming on slightly. This happens under moderate braking. I Had a brake job done about 1.5 to 2 years ago, and Im not hard on my brakes. I also have crossed drilled rotors in the front. Also sometimes when im stoped and i let off the brakes the right front brake makes a wierd noise. Its hard to descibe the sound, kinda like the caliper doesnt want to leg go.
Anyone have any idea what could be goin on??
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Old 05-16-2003, 12:18 AM   #2
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Well if you feel a slight vibration from your brakes its not always your ABS it could be that you have warped rotors and need them turned or replaced I would look into a pair if you havent got new ones in a while check the drums too this can be caused by brake dust also caught in the drum and always goto the most expensive part last...ABS.
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Old 05-16-2003, 12:26 AM   #3
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I dont think its the rotors cause they are only like 10 months old. Also sometimes when im stoped and i let off the brakes the right front brake makes a wierd noise. Its hard to descibe the sound, kinda like the caliper doesnt want to leg go.
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Old 05-16-2003, 12:44 AM   #4
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Maybe it is the caliper seezing up then its not unheard of for those things to stick
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Old 05-16-2003, 02:17 AM   #5
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No, I would definatley no it if that happened.
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Old 05-16-2003, 06:03 AM   #6
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Well....as much as I hate to rain on parades, I feel I must do so.

Crossdrilled rotors are the worst thing you can put on an everyday driver. They were developed for track racing and rally cars. The only exception are a few rare examples where the holes are CAST into the blanks before heat treating. Crossdrilling sacrifices surface tension stability and causes the rotors to warp (in mile cases) and SHATTER in extreme cases. Most are usually drilled so many times that it reduces effective surface area, and braking is diminished as a result. Ever see a rotor go during a NASCAR race? VERY ugly.

Those that run crossdrilled rotors (Nascar, rally, etc) change their rotors after every race. They just don't hold up in the long run.

Your symptoms have a classic warped rotor smell to me. A bit more attention and playing around with it jacked up may prove it. I'd be tempted to pull the rotors and take them to your local machine shop to check (if they were expensive) or just replace them (if they weren't). Bleeding your brakes first would be good.

The other possibility is that you have a caliper going south. Without being able to look at the car myself (unless you have a really big gas budget), I'd suggest taking it in for a diagnosis.....and if it isn't the rotors, change them anyway. If you want good rotors (slotted, not drilled) go to DP. I'm running his first set of RSM'* and I've tried like hell to kill them. Haven't succeeded yet. I know 95bonnevilleSESC is running them, and someone else is too.
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Old 05-16-2003, 11:02 AM   #7
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The rotors I have are from Brembo, isn't Brembo a good quality product? Why is slotted better for the street than cross drilled.
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Old 05-16-2003, 04:21 PM   #8
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Slotted allows the gasses to escape to the outer diameter of the rotor....reducing the 'air hockey' effect between the pads and rotor. Also works the same way for removing water (usually found in wet weather ). The DRILLED rotors are prone to microcracking between the holes. The other problem, like I stated before, is that you now have less surface area for the pads, and thereby less braking. Brembo sells their rotors under the marketing idea that a cooler rotor doesn't allow brake fade. (the holes are advertised for cooling the rotors, which they probably do a little bit, otherwise Nascar wouldn't do it, right?)

I'm here to tell you the last thing you need is drilled. Buy a good quality hardened SLOTTED rotor, and put ceramic pads on it. They'll NEVER fade. They actually bite harder than cold stock rotors when they're hot. This negates the whole purpose of drilling.

Brembo sells cross-drilled rotors because people like to look at them through their wheels. Supply and demand.
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Old 05-16-2003, 05:36 PM   #9
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Look at the disclaimer on the tire rack with their drilled brembo rotors and you will se what will is talking about directly from brembo. HC (high carbon) rotors blank or slotted are the best. I have had the sticking caliper problem and also the problem of the rear drums failing and I am still trying to warp the rotors. I have sold many many sets and not a problem to date. Call me at 559-709-4127. Ill go over all the details.

Ty
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Old 05-16-2003, 05:55 PM   #10
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Rotor man has spoken.

I have the first set on my car. My pics of the install are posted here somewhere (with alot of beer bottles in the foreground). It took about 2 WEEKS to wear through the machining marks on the rotor faces. And that was while I was TRYING to destroy these things. I even did a 140mph+ to zero stop with them, and they never faded.

Pulled my ears around to my eyes, though.

Ty'* rotors are the best. Especially the price. Mine are paired up with Raybestos Quiet-stop Ceramic pads. I think that'* what Tim used with his, too.

Edited later.....here'* the pics:



And the link to the original thread for those that wanna know more:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...pic.php?t=1458
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