Is my Upper Tensioner Pulley Shot? New pic
I finally was able to get a close up pic of my tensioner pully and the tensioner gauge (If thats what its called)
About a month or so ago, I got a JY pulley that ended up failing and binding up, thank god I heard it before it busted entirely and left me stranded. I put the old one back on there for now and purchased an Autozone replacement (Cheap and Cheap looking) which I am keeping as a spare in case I have another Pulley go. Now im thinking that I may need to replace the entire tensioner.
About a month or so ago, I got a JY pulley that ended up failing and binding up, thank god I heard it before it busted entirely and left me stranded. I put the old one back on there for now and purchased an Autozone replacement (Cheap and Cheap looking) which I am keeping as a spare in case I have another Pulley go. Now im thinking that I may need to replace the entire tensioner.

You should be closer to the end I'm on.
Mine is closer to ideal tension with the 2.2" supercharger pulley than with the 2.0" pictured. My advice to you is to replace that tensioner.
If you've changed SC pulleys, you should also change the pulley on the tensioner to a 3.5".
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,099
Likes: 0
From: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-

Originally Posted by BLACK94SSEi
I finally was able to get a close up pic of my tensioner pully and the tensioner gauge (If thats what its called)
About a month or so ago, I got a JY pulley that ended up failing and binding up, thank god I heard it before it busted entirely and left me stranded. I put the old one back on there for now and purchased an Autozone replacement (Cheap and Cheap looking) which I am keeping as a spare in case I have another Pulley go. Now im thinking that I may need to replace the entire tensioner.

About a month or so ago, I got a JY pulley that ended up failing and binding up, thank god I heard it before it busted entirely and left me stranded. I put the old one back on there for now and purchased an Autozone replacement (Cheap and Cheap looking) which I am keeping as a spare in case I have another Pulley go. Now im thinking that I may need to replace the entire tensioner.

You must be running a performance pulley :?:
Originally Posted by Willwren
If you've changed SC pulleys, you should also change the pulley on the tensioner to a 3.5".
I am planning to take care of this tensioner issue as well as the Power Steering pump in a week or so. Until then I hope nothing goes on me.
When I replaced tensioners (3 out of 5 total on all my cars) they had gone bad because they were sticking (as opposed to weak springs). When you would rotate tensioner a little to try to loosen or tighten belt, they would have a slight raspy feel and would not spring back close to the position before rotating. Symptoms I had were that bearings kept wearing out for idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and alternator.
The best $ I found for S1 tensioners was at Partsamerica.com
The best $ I found for S1 tensioners was at Partsamerica.com
[quote="BLACK94SSEi"]Would anyone know why this would happen? Looking at the Power Steering Pump, the pulley seems to be a little wobbly , but when the belt was off, there was very little play.
quote]
The way to test the tensioner pulley is to loosen the belt off of it. Then rotate, twist, and test it to see if it'* loose or making noise when it rotates. Mine was looking great when running but I had a rushing sound coming from it at times, usually cold.
New one was a cinch to replace-bolt turns backwards from normal. It was around $10 at Advance Auto.
quote]
The way to test the tensioner pulley is to loosen the belt off of it. Then rotate, twist, and test it to see if it'* loose or making noise when it rotates. Mine was looking great when running but I had a rushing sound coming from it at times, usually cold.
New one was a cinch to replace-bolt turns backwards from normal. It was around $10 at Advance Auto.
Originally Posted by imidazol
The way to test the tensioner pulley is to loosen the belt off of it. Then rotate, twist, and test it to see if it'* loose or making noise when it rotates. Mine was looking great when running but I had a rushing sound coming from it at times, usually cold.
New one was a cinch to replace-bolt turns backwards from normal. It was around $10 at Advance Auto.
New one was a cinch to replace-bolt turns backwards from normal. It was around $10 at Advance Auto.
Now im thinking more along the lines that when it comes to these parts, I would rather go Genuine GM than Aftermarket. The tensioner pulley I got at AutoZone, and the power steering pump I looked at was cheaply Made/rebuilt. The PSP paint was chipping off and getting all over my hands.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GunsOfNavarone
General GM Chat
4
Nov 26, 2014 12:45 PM
GTX COWBOY
Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning
10
Mar 14, 2003 12:32 AM



