motor likes to jump or miss at 1500 to 2000rpm, WHY!!!????
 

this should not be spark plug related. I just changed plugs and yes they should be fine (AC Delco) then my car was fine for a day then did it again. So i checked my wires, one wasnt fitting relay well, (rusted/corroted) so bought new one,

car STILL jumps at 1500to2000rpm, between 50-60mph. Any other suggestions as to why? Im stumped and beginning to get pissed.

HELP ME PLEASE!

thank you so much if you can solve my problem i shall worship you,

chad

try switching the coils around, and how did the plugs look?

explain a little more indepth please, and last i checked plugs were fine, like i said it has times when it's fine,
but how do i switch coils around?

ill let a geahead tell you that...im not really sure, just heard others recommend it...sorry i am of no help

The end of the spark plug wire that isn't hooked to the spark plug, is hooked to the coil. They're held by two ~7mm bolts. Swap their positions, while retaining the spark plugs in the right place.

Does it always do it at that RPM, or is it more dependant on vehicle speed?

it is dependent on vehicle speed and rpms at that speed,

thanks so far but could u explain coil swap a little more precisely, (like the swapping part?)
thanks,
chad

man, these cars, i tell you what. my bonnie is surging again, too. i'd like to get this problem pinpointed, once and for all. has anyone found a definite solution in the coils? or could the computers be going bad at high mileage? we've got a '95 olds 88 that has gone through 3 computers, and i wonder if the bonnies are afflicted by the same sickness...

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member...23_72_full.jpg

They're talking about those red things the wires are plugged into, yours will be black. They're saying to take, say, the one from the top and move it to the bottom.

I don't see how this would be beneficial as it would simply move the problem to another plug. Also I don't think your problem is related to the ignition, it sounds more like the TCC and those are the speeds which it should be comming into play. In english - its probably your transmission. When it first happens, do the rpms go up or down?

edit: Don't get all excited about a big bill, this doesn't rule out simple things that relate to the TCC engaging like your computer...

actually it seems as if the rpms dont change at all at this point. Only the motor jumping or missing, but unlike other problems it seems as if i have no loss in power or anything so it could be the TCC?m (torque converter right?) Easiest way to fix?

IF i do switch the coils
A. How exactly do I,
B. If i switch them How would i know if it is the coils making the problem, if it persists? or if it stops? how can i tell?

thanks i hope i can figure this out in a cost effective manner im going to college and have no money

Don't worry about changing the coils around, I don't see the sense in it..maybe someone can explain that one.

So but wait maybe I'm confused...Does the engine sound rough when it happens or is it just as smooth as when you're in park and press the gas?

alright picture it like this. ever have a spark plug wire come loose? or off for that matter,
when the engine jumps like that, that seems to be what it is doing again but only at those speeds, and rpms,
it runs smooth any other time and even then just if i hold it at x speed between 50-60 mph at about 2k rpms the engine continually jumps as if a spark plug is bad or faulted even, but i just changed them and am almost certain it isnt those because it did this before i changed plugs, (cheep champions, later did i read about using ACdelco in our cars primairlly). so i finally changed them and it was fine for a day or so but i cant always get it to do this so it may not have been fine.

there is the long story for you i you can sort it out THANK YOU

My 96 SE does it too. It only does it on easy acc. when it shifts into OD, when it shiifts it will chug or surge or whatever word that describes it, it has done it every since I've owned the car. When Im accl. preety hard has no problem.

I will bet you my left bollock that this is ignition-related.

What kind of AC Delco plugs did you buy? Did you check the gap on them before installing them?

Check out this recent thread, you might want to try some of the troubleshooting steps mentioned here:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=23196

:offtopic: Have you checked to see ifyou're cat converter is emptied out and you lost back pressure? I had similar issue like you described.. and kept thinkin it was ignition.. but thankfully I had emission test to do.. and it failed.. and when we cut off the cat.. guess wat.. it's empty.. put on another cat.. and it's fine now.. :wink:

You may be right but the only thing that catches me is it only does it at a certian speed and it coincides with the speed of a major part of the transmission that commonly goes out. Since below about 50mph the TCC is a non-issue if he can floor it from 0-45 or cruise at any of those speeds and not experience any problems I would generally look other places for the problem.

try disconnecting the throttle position sensor then taking it for a drive at those same speeds. You'll get a service engine soon light, but this is just to see if the problem goes away or not.. Let us know.

ok im following every one except Dr. Jay on the last one, where and what is the throttle position sensor

and in response to others I have the standard 606 plugs gapped at standard .060 and have not had an emissions test done yet.

thanks all so far, just keep the advice coming please i hope this may help more than just me now

i dunno guys, i don't think it's the plugs. i've replaced plugs, wires, fuel filter on mine, and i still have the problem. it could be in the coils but i keep going back to a thread from a few months ago. marksssei said he had his car put on a high dollar scantool and checked out how the tranny was working, to see if the TC was doing anything it wasn't supposed to. they found out that the TC wasn't locking up correctly in OD, but it wasn't because of a bad converter. it was because the computer was telling the TC to act screwy. so, deductive reasoning, the problem is one of the inputs the PCM measures. marksssei cleaned his MAF and the problem was gone, but i'm seriously wondering if we have funky PCMs. MY KEY QUESTION: IS ANYONE WITH AN AFTERMARKET PCM OR PERFORMANCE CHIP HAVING THESE PROBLEMS???

The RPM range he's talking about would lead me to suspect the TCC solonoid as well, and I'd bet he has a history code stored for it.

At those speeds, you'll run 2000 rpms if the TC doesn't lock up at 48mph like it should, and 1500 if it works right.

all right, now the problem is gone , in response to your last post willwren i have to almost put my car at the 2000 rpm, it doesnt necessarily want to be there but it will do it at low acceleratoin just as tutu67 said. So im not sure, would maybe a free type diagnostic test from autozone detect the problem or shoud i pay the 60 bucks for a good one? OR should i just wait now that it isnt doing it again?

For bignews idea, how do i clean MAF? (is that in chiltons?)

thats all i got so far

If you can find an autozone that'll do it, its just as good as the other guys I'd say..

Cleaning the MAF is pretty simple. I actually did it at work with a piece of paper folded in such a way as to let a single piece hang off the end but allow for strength. Lightly rub it across your filaments to clean them. Using brake cleaner on the end also helps

alright, you lost me at its easy?

explain a litle more in depth,
also willwren can explain possible problems with TCC and TCC solenoid more please
ill get to autozone sometime this week

You guys are describing a prob I've been having for quite some time now. I just read the thread:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=23196

And is that thread telling me my plugs bec thy are NGK should not be gapped to 0.60 they should only be 0.48? :?

WHICH NGK plugs? I would hope you're not running colder plugs with your mods. If you are, that's your problem. If you're not, you are gapped way too small. You should be running stock heatrange plugs gapped at .060".

Back on the original problem, get a scan. That's all there is to it. We need to know of any stored codes.

I'm running NGK v-power "TR55" stock#3951 plugs gapped at

0.60

TR55's are one heat range colder, and should be gapped at .055".

I don't want what I have then right? What do you recommend I do and would that throw a code?

Won't throw a code, the the 55's will do fine for now, especially after your pulley whenever you get to it.

No, bad plugs won't throw a code on your car.

Follow up.......Pull your plugs if you suspect a miss. Clean them, then re-gap them to .055"

Is that why they call them Tr55 bec of the gap of 0.55? I'll pull them this weekend and regap . How was I supp to know to goto the different gap? Also would the only performance issue be the possibility of a miss because of the wrong gap? Do I just clean w a wire brush?

Soft wire (steel brush). Inspect your plugs first and see if there's a miss. TR55 doesn't have any connection to the plug gap. It's just a part number (for instance, the TR6 is supposed to gap at .045).

Any time you run a plug of a non-standard heatrange, check to see what the gap should be. I called NGK. That's where the sticky post in Performance came from ;)

I didn't know either. :lol:

I already know if I pull them I 'm gonna regap and clean. But how do tell by lookin at a plug if there's a miss?

You need to inspect the plugs for fouling or misfiring. Do you have a service manual?

yes i do

Kewl. There should be a guide in it for 'reading plugs', to determine if there's something wrong. Remember which cylinder each came from. I lay them out on my maxifuse relay center in order. First thing is that they should all look the same.....that's the first thing to look for. From there, just follow the guide in your book.

Plugs can tell the story for alot of issues.

OK. B4 I left for work this morning I decided to pull the plugs that would only take a few minutes. So i pulled 3 up front and 1 in the rear on driver side. These things were gapped at like 0.065. I cleaned them and gapped them down to 0.055. I have not had any misses today. Could this have been causing a miss? I was gonna regap the other 2 tomorrow and then I decided to go to NAPA at lunchtime today and order 6 new ones just because I feel like they may be damaged now. They were misgapped for probably about 20,000 miles. It could just be me but the car sounded and felt smoother. Can I damage my plugs from a bad gap? :D

Yup. You were 10 thousands off if those were TR55's. You probably had intermittent misfiring on all 6.

Could be all your problem, might be only part of it. Sounds like you're on the right track.

So tomorrowI do plugs and my Gatorbacks should be in. I midas well do an engine clean while I'm at it. Foam or simple green?

plugs are changed. I feel no more heitation. I also cleaned engine looks great. I still get a c/e light but it seems now like it's sooner into driving rather than later like b4. Maybe I got something wet while cleaning engine. I covered alt, o2, various sensor plugs w aluminum foil and i didn't hose the engine. Oh yeah and I put on my Gatorback belts. The yellow logo matches my Lemon- Lime Bonnie color scheme. I gotta post some pics soon as I figure out how! :D