master cylinder-booster conn. - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-28-2008, 02:47 AM   #1
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Default master cylinder-booster conn.

95 SE series II 3.8 --- 1st year.

I've developed a leak where the master cylinder is bolted to the power booster housing. It is the 2 bolts with horizontal mounting. I've never had any master cylinder off so I don't know if there is just a gasket there or is it something more sinister causing the leak?

Thanks.

I asked this question a week or so ago but only got one suggestion to disconect the wiring at the module. Thanks again.
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Old 01-28-2008, 06:36 AM   #2
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No gasket on Non-ABS vehicles, so probably no on later ABS stuff. However, it sounds like your master cylinder'* seals are faulty and are allowing fluid to weep. I'm assuming your brakes feel a bit on the spongy side? Do they feel hard but as you let your foot rest on the pedal, it starts to get soft and the pedal starts to "mush" towards the floor?
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Old 01-28-2008, 07:06 AM   #3
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No the brakes feel fine. I had no leakage either until my last "ABS stomp on the brakes cause the freaking car won't stop adventure."

It is leaking right where the mastercylinder meets the booster. There is a two bolt flange there. No other leaks. It is dripping down the booster front and then down the firewall. makes a puddle behind and inside of the front driverside tire.
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:38 AM   #4
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Like Alibi suggested, the problem is the seal on the piston of the master cylinder itself. You need to replace the master cylinder. Don't let the reservoir run dry. If you replace the MC yourself, it will cost about $60 for a rebuilt cylinder. You may have to drive out a roller pin to change the reservoir. You will need the proper size flare (line) wrenches to prevent rounding off the line nuts. You will need to buy a bottle of brake fluid and follow the instructions for bench bleeding the replacement MC. You should then bleed the brakes on the car to remove the air you will have introduced when you opened the lines. The whole deal should cost less than $75 and take a few hours. Replacement part here: http://www.rockauto.com Brake bleeding instructions here: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=90310
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