MAJOR Performance Problem SSEi Did a Ton of Testing No luck - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-04-2006, 05:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
clean the MAF, replace your O2, those helped me out a lot.
The 02 is brand new. The O2 has nothing to do with WOT performance. It puts out voltage, but the PCM doesn't use it to make any corrections to the fueling. I'm almost positive that the MAF does, but the MAF seems to be in working order from the scan logs. However I will clean it. My guess is that if it was that far gone that i was robbing at least 100hp, removing the plug completely and running off of the default tables would be the way to find out if it'* the cause.
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Old 05-06-2006, 10:43 PM   #22
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I did a little work on the car today. I checked all the primaries of all the coils, they all checked out. I checked the resistance of my new plug wires, they were fine. I pulled both of the accessory belts off and made sure that nothing was binding or dragging, and the A/C compressor was VERY hard to move by hand. I checked to see if it was stuck engaged, but it wasn't, so I used PB blaster where the compressor pulley meets the housing, and it loosened up with a little playing with. The pulley now spins freely.

I found a pretty significant vacuum leak; the vacuum block on the top of the supercharger was leaking at its base. I applied some RTV to the mating surface, and torqued it down. Is there supposed to be a gasket there?

I also changed out the fuel filter.

The idle is a little better now, and it appears that I got a little more vacuum back on the gauge, but the idle still isn't perfect. I haven't taken the car out for a drive yet to see if there is any difference in performance, but I will in a little bit. The car is doing something weird now however. When I tap the gas in park or neutral, the engine will rev up to ~1700rpms and hang there for about 5 seconds and then the rpms come down slowly from that. It'* pretty strange. Any ideas what that could be from? I'm thinking that I may have other vacuum leaks, but I'm not totally sure. I'm going to get a hose to listen for them with so I can pinpoint leaks if there are any.

I'm probably going to remove the throttle body tonight or tomorrow to clean the MAF and the IAC. I'll see if that makes any difference. I hope that I have more power now after freeing that stuck A/C compressor pulley, I guess I'll have to go out and find out.
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Old 05-07-2006, 12:06 AM   #23
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Yeah, there should be a gasket there. Hard to find. Part stores seem to only be able to get it in large gasket sets, as I found from recent search. Try a dealership.

I'm curious as to why your AC pulley was binding. Did you find anything in it?

The rev thing may be due to the engine'* easier ability to rev now, and it previously programmed itself to try that, you just couldn't notice it, if you know what I'm trying to say. Mine will act that way if I've reset the computer.
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Old 05-07-2006, 01:00 AM   #24
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When you get the TB off tomorrow, soak your IAC in a cup of 3in1 oil while you clean the TB. Then let it drip dry (nose down) for about 30 minutes, and wipe it down before installing it.

Use the procedure in Techinfo for cleaning the TB and MAF.

The gasket on the top of the SC can be custom cut if you want to, but you should be ok with what you did (I did the same thing on the last rebuild I did). Just make sure you check it later for leaks.
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Old 05-07-2006, 02:17 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Wikoff
I'm curious as to why your AC pulley was binding. Did you find anything in it?
I didn't find anything in it (besides some rust). Before I bought the car, it was sitting for a while, and I'm pretty sure it was just from lack of use. I haven't used the A/C myself yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J Wikoff
The rev thing may be due to the engine'* easier ability to rev now, and it previously programmed itself to try that, you just couldn't notice it, if you know what I'm trying to say. Mine will act that way if I've reset the computer.
I did reset the PCM by pulling the ground wire from the battery while I worked on the car. It is a possibility, and I might just not have let it run long enough for the PCM to re-learn all the fuel trims and what-not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
When you get the TB off tomorrow, soak your IAC in a cup of 3in1 oil while you clean the TB. Then let it drip dry (nose down) for about 30 minutes, and wipe it down before installing it.

Use the procedure in Techinfo for cleaning the TB and MAF.

The gasket on the top of the SC can be custom cut if you want to, but you should be ok with what you did (I did the same thing on the last rebuild I did). Just make sure you check it later for leaks.
Thanks for the advice. I'm sure soaking the motor in the oil will definetly help free anything mechanical inside the motor up if it is stuck. I'm probably going to stick with the RTV gasket, because it'* better than nothing. I'll definetly re-check for leaks while I'm going back over all the vacuum hoses to make sure that there isn't any.
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Old 05-07-2006, 02:20 AM   #26
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How much KR are you getting? What'* your fuel pressure?
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Old 05-07-2006, 02:45 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
How much KR are you getting? What'* your fuel pressure?
I wasn't getting hardly any at all. Of all the runs I did, the KR would usually be 0-1, it peaked at 3deg. once, but only for a second. I tested the fuel pressure soon after I bought the car a few months ago, and it was good (I think it was somewhere in the 40psi range I believe), but I haven't tested recently.
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Old 05-07-2006, 02:53 AM   #28
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Check your fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line disconnected. Let us know what it is.

Do another KR scan fully warmed up at WOT.
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