Low Oil pressure with Hot engine?? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-10-2003, 02:52 PM   #11
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Keep an eye on the lounge for the pc/network probs. There'* usually a couple a week posted at least! Glad to have you here!
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Old 11-10-2003, 03:12 PM   #12
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I wonder why some of the 3800 engines do this?
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Old 11-10-2003, 08:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LewR
Well, I certainly appreciate the feedback - and the welcome from all. While it wasn't the news I wanted to hear, it may at least give me an idea of what I need to do.

Like I said earlier, I am no Mighty Mouse when it comes to modern cars - but do you think it may be worth looking into a rebuilt engine as an alternative? The rest of the car is in great shape and it is just so damn comfortable to ride in. On the other hand, I would hate to throw good money after bad.

What effects would a heavier weight oil have? Would it at least keep it from sounding like I am in Macy'*? (ding, ding, ding....)

Thanks!!
Well if you use a heavy oil, that will keep the oil sender alarm from going off while at idle....(I added a quart of 80W90 to mine) The oil pressure will still be lacking to the bearings though & as it gets colder, the oil will stay thick & even less will reach the crutial areas it needs to get to. trust me here, Ive been there & decided to patch it up enough to sell it instead. Mine was in prestine condition too, I just felt that I should spend the $3000 elsewhere instead.
Now if you want to patch it up enough to sell it just let me know as I've been through it all when it comes to scams! Being an ex-mechanic & now a partsman comes in handy when buying a used vehicle & as I've seen some strange stuff in certain units that people have tried to use to unload a car.
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Old 11-10-2003, 09:39 PM   #14
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How long do you let the car idle? Does it do this in only a few seconds or like idling for 30 minutes or so?

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Old 11-10-2003, 09:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
.....at this point in the life of your engine, I'd be more concerned with getting volume through those bearings, not necessarily trying to falsely raise the pressure.
Will my buddy, volume IS what he is getting which is resulting in the lower pressure. When the clearnances enlarge volume rises while pressure drops. Since there is lower pressure the oil is squoze (is that a word?!) out from between the bearings easier and makes things worse. Think about taking the spray attachment off your hose, still the same amount of water, just at lower pressure. I think I have a video on it if you wanna see . Ahh edgemicated mahself oh dese tings just lahst weak.
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Old 11-11-2003, 11:31 AM   #16
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Default Same Boat

I am in the exact same boat with my 95 Bonnie.

Bought car at a repair shop. It belonged to a customer who was moving, and therefore I dealt with the owner of the shop.

Upper intake had JUST been replaced by the same shop, which is something I looked for before I bought the car. Car performed well during test drive with all functions normal.

I bought the car for the asking price, which was reasonable.

I have driven the car a total of 55 miles. Now the oil pressure drops to just a hair above the red area on the gauge when idling after driving (just as described above). At speed the gauge reads just below half way. There is now an odor of coolant at times.

I pulled the oil dipstick and I see no noticable traces of anti-freeze or water, fortunately.

Because of this, I took the car back and asked the shop to take a look. I have not heard back from the shop as of yet, but I am fearing the worst.

What do you think? Does the shop have any liability here or am I probably on my own with this repair?
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Old 11-11-2003, 11:42 AM   #17
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uhm well if he sold it "as-is" you might be on your own about it. I would check into it though because I would be pretty mad if there is a problem with it in 55 miles. hahaha to those of you thinking about my situation. but anyway, rising oil pressure with higher RPM'* is a classic sign of bearing wear. I would think if you paid a fair amount for it and the shop doesn't claim liability I would look into it. On the other hand if you paid $500 and the car is broke.....
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Old 11-11-2003, 03:46 PM   #18
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The coolant smell may be just burning off the top surfaces of the manifolds and heads from the intake replacement. If your oil looks good, and you're not losing coolant forget that for now.

The Oil pressure is probably because of the water sitting in the oil pan....at the bottom of the engine. You may never know, but I bet that car sat for a week or two before they had the work done. Rust is a bad thing, and happens quickly. The bearings are probably shot, and will destroy your crank in very short order. (If I'm right).

Do what you can with the shop. And good luck.
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Old 11-11-2003, 05:31 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
The coolant smell may be just burning off the top surfaces of the manifolds and heads from the intake replacement. If your oil looks good, and you're not losing coolant forget that for now.

The Oil pressure is probably because of the water sitting in the oil pan....at the bottom of the engine. You may never know, but I bet that car sat for a week or two before they had the work done. Rust is a bad thing, and happens quickly. The bearings are probably shot, and will destroy your crank in very short order. (If I'm right).

Do what you can with the shop. And good luck.
Dont' be to thief the post.. but hee hee..

Well Bill, cause of my situation ( which you know about ) so the engine hasn't turned over for a while ( cause of the accident, the rear spring popped out of the arm and made the auto level work and totally drained and killed my battery.. and to make things worse.. the positive terminal screw on the battery has seized and stripped from tryin to remove it ( even with Vice Grip ), so I need to get that terminal off so I can jump the car from a different battery to start then engine ( which havent' been done as the shop seems to lack tools or in use grr.. ) so anywho.. .my engine hasn't turned over for a while.. so am I to expect that I would need a new engine then cause of rust on bearings and sucht? }( just wondering than if I should bother with gettin it fixed and not takin the money cause I would need to replace a */C engine then )
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Old 11-11-2003, 05:39 PM   #20
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Drain the oil, and pull the pan. Look for evidence of rust. Was the car TOTALLY immersed?
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