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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-25-2003, 09:51 PM   #11
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Wow!!! impresive post acg_ssei,

Any one else think this will work?
I'm useless when it comes to electronic knowhow.
But would like the optioal lighting.

Ive messed up more than one car screwin with the electrical, and would like to believe ive learned my lesson.
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Old 02-26-2003, 11:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitu
Any one else think this will work? I'm useless when it comes to electronic know-how. But would like the optimal lighting.

I've messed up more than one car screwing with the electrical, and would like to believe I've learned my lesson.
One thing I'm not sure of is whether your Driver Information Center (DIC) is going to get confused over the current flow to the different headlights, and maybe start giving you bogus warnings about a headlamp out. The warnings are sent out by a controller in the dash called (if I recall right) the Adaptive Lighting Unit, or something like that, a/k/a the ALU (or maybe Adaptive Lamp Monitor -- ALM? Whatever...). It monitors current flow on the lighting circuits, and sends a warning to the DIC if flow on one circuit suddenly decreases, to tell you that such-and-such a bulb is out.

I remember me and the dealer going crazy over what looked like false alarms from the ALU about the high-mount brake light in the back window, which of course always worked when you got out and looked at in the parking lot, but then when you're driving, the warning would start chiming again. Finally found a loose connection in the bulb socket, just loose enough that body flex while driving would make the bulb flicker. So the warning system had been right all along...

I think you should just temporarily wire in the relay, maybe by just sneaking bare wires into the socket plugs or however you can avoid cutting wires, and just make sure it will work without giving you false alarms whenever you switch between high and low beams. I have no solid reason to think it will go nuts, but I haven't done this setup on a car with a lamp monitor before. If it acts the way it should, then solder in the new wiring setup and relay, and you're all set.
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Old 03-01-2003, 01:09 AM   #13
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I'm still working on this. Keep the ideas coming. I should know something by the end of the weekend.
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Old 03-02-2003, 01:35 PM   #14
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Ok, THAT Idea went POOF!

The bad news is that there isn't a fuse to be able to bump up the protection. There'* a circuit breaker built into the headlight switch. In other words, if we doubled the current draw, our lights would be turning off and on by themselves. (the breaker has an auto-reset).

Back to the drawing board. This is possible, but not as simple as I was hoping.
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Old 03-02-2003, 02:07 PM   #15
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Old 03-02-2003, 02:11 PM   #16
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Never fear, birdman. I'm still working on this.
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Old 03-02-2003, 11:22 PM   #17
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correct me if im wrong but on my 2000 the driving lights are on all the time so there is always 4 blubs work at any give time, i thought i was the same on the 90'* too but i think i might be wrong now?
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Old 03-03-2003, 01:23 AM   #18
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Driving lights are on with the low beams. When the hi beams come on, the lows and the driving lights go off. We're trying to find the best way to make ALL 6 stay on with the highs.
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Old 03-03-2003, 12:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Ok, THAT Idea went POOF!

The bad news is that there isn't a fuse to be able to bump up the protection. There'* a circuit breaker built into the headlight switch. In other words, if we doubled the current draw, our lights would be turning off and on by themselves. (the breaker has an auto-reset).

Back to the drawing board. This is possible, but not as simple as I was hoping.
Right; when you add the low beams to accompany the high beams, you're going to have to provide a new power source for them. That'* the point of the relay: you do use a small portion of the high-beam current to close the relay, but the low beams themselves will be lit by a separate circuit that you set up. Not sure if there is an available port in the fusebox, but once you find a power source, I would put a small circuit breaker in it as protection (e.g. like one of those used for power-window circuits) and use that new circuit as the low-beam power source that the relay will switch on.

None of this will be disturbing the original factory low-beam circuit; you're just splicing a second power supply into the low-beam wiring.

So:

1) Tap into high-beam circuit to get power to close relay (the secondary circuit)
2) Connect a circuit-breaker protected power source to main contact of relay (the primary circuit)
3) Connect primary output from relay to low-beam circuit. When relay closes, it will provide circuit-breaker protected power source to light the low beams.

Like I said, test all this before you go soldering the connections and otherwise making them permanent.
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Old 03-03-2003, 01:58 PM   #20
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And a bypass switch in the cockpit wouldn't be a bad idea either.
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