'looseness' in drivetrain, maybe the half shaft? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-30-2006, 04:52 PM   #11
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Default steering

End links, and if its not that check your End links.....
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Old 11-30-2006, 05:19 PM   #12
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I disagree 100%. Even missing endlinks will not give the described effect. He has 100% described the perfect syptoms for a motor mount. He'* described it so perfectly, that I can tell you which mount it is.

Endlinks do NOT cause drivetrain related symptoms.

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Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 2:36 pm Post subject: 'looseness' in drivetrain, maybe the half shaft?

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A few weeks ago I started feeling some 'looseness' in the drive train. When I start out from a stop, there is a tiny bit if play, nothing happens and then there is kind of a hard jerk and the car starts moving. It was very subtle, most people wouldn't have noticed it.
I'm not seeing anything in that description that would lead me to believe anything other than a mount. Not even endlinks or a balljoint.
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:07 PM   #13
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Default Re: steering

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End links, and if its not that check your End links.....
I agree with WillWrens disagreement. I feel that if you were on the gas and the motor lifted a bit, that the extra pressure and changes in geometry could easily account for the odd feeling around the corner.

That would feel like something that is tough to explain.

The only thing we can do now is wait until the weather is warm enough to look at the motor.
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:29 PM   #14
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I Agree with bill and Will. as the saying goes, if it looks like a rose and it smells like a rose, its probablya rose. Go ahead and check the mounts when the weather gives in. Its worth a try.
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Old 11-30-2006, 06:33 PM   #15
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I agree with both Bills too. I just added my 2 cents on steering because he originally said his steering was loose as well. I wasn't denying there were mount problems.
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Old 11-30-2006, 07:58 PM   #16
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Good call willwren - took me about 10 minutes digging around with a flashlight, but I finally found the motor mount. Had my wife rev the engine slightly with the parking brake on, and then I could see the crack in the mount.

How hard is this job to do? Just support the tranny, take out a bunch of bolts, remove and replace? And any idea what it should cost at a shop to have done?

Also which motor mount is it, so I can ask for a quote over the phone. Just the 'front' motor mount? Or is it the tranny mount? It is way down low, hmm that probably is the transmission there isn't it?

Thanks a lot guys. And I don't disagree with the advice about the loose steering. But I don't know how much longer I'll have the car, sometimes I think its time to put it out to pasture. But when I think about getting a different car, I have second thoughts because of all the great people here!

Thanks again,
-Ryan
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:20 PM   #17
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WillWren???? WillWren? lol:
Make a deal with you.. give me a little credit and I'll tell you it'* the front left mount and that it comes off easy if you remove 1 trans bolt, 2 bolts on the front of the mount to the trans and then 3 nuts from the subframe. Jack up a bit and remove.
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Old 11-30-2006, 09:36 PM   #18
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Ryan, we'll take care of the mount, then re-diagnose for any remaining issues.

Follow Boosty'* advice above. You'll be jacking the motor up by the oil pan with a block of wood between the jack and the pan to distribute the load and not dent the pan. The bigger the better (about a foot of 2x6 or 2x8 will be fine). The car should be on ramps. Then remove the fasterners, jack the motor up, and wiggle it out.

To get the bolts to line up on the new one, you might want about a 2' or 3' chunk of 2x4 to 'lever' the engine to where you need it. It might just drop right in and line up too.

It'* not that bad. I can do them myself, but it'* easier with a helper. It'* just bolts. Torque specs are in Techinfo, but this isn't too critical. Just get 'em tight, but not tight enough to strip them.

You need the front TRANS mount. If you go to the dealer, he'll show you the diagram and you can point to it, or go to your favorite parts store with a good idea of what it looks like. That mount should cost you about 50 bucks max. I don't remember exactly.

It'* a simple mount. Two steel plates at about 45 degrees to each other, with rubber in between.
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Old 11-30-2006, 10:46 PM   #19
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BillBoost37, you are right you were the first one to mention motor mounts.

I will probably try to do it myself this weekend then, doesn't sound too hard. Just have to find a garage to work in. I've got the heater and propane tank.
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Old 12-01-2006, 12:46 PM   #20
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OK guys you called it on this one. Kudos
ps My moms park ave DID clunk around corners and on acceleration when the end link snapped. The middle piece stayed in place and kept banging on the torsion bar. weird
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