Loose steering, scary as hell. - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-10-2006, 11:37 PM   #11
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What if you get it on stands, and you can turn the wheel left and right, maybe 2 or 3 degrees from max left to max right?
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:04 AM   #12
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Eric, if you have the same problem I'd look into your ball joints and TR ends as well. Air flowing under the car would not affect it until you're at significant speeds. I get this at anywhere from 75-90. That'* not fast enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clm2112
Ok, time to get it up on jackstands, take the wheels off, and start looking. Check the rubber boots on the ball joints and tie rods ends. Anything with a cracked or torn boot should be considered toast. Take a look at the bushings, you can see them when they are gone (rubber all cracked or torn.) You can check for play in the rack while you are under there.

The good news: Ball Joints, Tie Rods, and Bushings are cheap. And at 110k miles on the originals, they are probably due for replacement (especially if they are sealed ones without grease fittings)
When me and Bill replaced my left axle shaft the bushing on the BJ was pretty bad, and it was worse after we finished. This is why I suspected the BJs months ago, were probably in need of replacing.

The bushings on the TR ends however, do seem fine and they fill up with grease as they should.

Ball Joints are cheap, it'* just a matter if replacing them that is tough since drilling out the rivets is a PITA and I don't have an air chisel either. Do you have an idea of the cost of getting them replaced at a shop? Labor should only be a couple hours max I would assume.
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:38 AM   #13
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I have replace the Tie rods, Ball joints and the Rack... Every little bit has helped...

The old rack was in bad shap, the paly in it cause me to counter steer or constantaly correct... It drove me nuts and made for a long uncomfortable 1000 mile drive... Then I had to drive it back... LOL

After that I replaced the Rack and that improved the steering 10x'* over.... The last couple of trips that I have taken have actually been pleasnt to drive the long distances, I wasn't continually trying to correct..

Pete, How much play do you have with the car on the ground, with the ignition on or position before it so that the steering wheel will not be locked... You should feel resistance from left to right with no free play... If there is free play in the wheel something is worn out...

You do need to check the Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends and the shape of your strut mounts... Chamber can also affect what you feel... And like it was asked above, do you have any uneve tire wear?

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Old 07-11-2006, 11:40 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
I have replace the Tie rods, Ball joints and the Rack... Every little bit has helped...

The old rack was in bad shap, the paly in it cause me to counter steer or constantaly correct... It drove me nuts and made for a long uncomfortable 1000 mile drive... Then I had to drive it back... LOL

After that I replaced the Rack and that improved the steering 10x'* over.... The last couple of trips that I have taken have actually been pleasnt to drive the long distances, I wasn't continually trying to correct..

Pete, How much play do you have with the car on the ground, with the ignition on or position before it so that the steering wheel will not be locked... You should feel resistance from left to right with no free play... If there is free play in the wheel something is worn out...

You do need to check the Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends and the shape of your strut mounts... Chamber can also affect what you feel... And like it was asked above, do you have any uneve tire wear?
I do feel resistance when I turn the wheel on the ground with the ignition on. I can turn the wheel a very little but it'* extremely tough as it should be. The front end just makes all kinds of bumpy noises, like when I get parked in the driveway and turn the wheel left and right, things just feel loose. The rear struts also make 'snapping' noises when hitting sharp bumps.

Tire wear though, I did have some uneven wear on the left front tire, on the outside edge. It was worn down more than it should have. These were another member'* tires that I swapped, with the rims, so I don't know if it was alreaady like that. I did put that wheel/tire on the back. The two front tires now are even.
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Old 07-11-2006, 12:04 PM   #15
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Boss it sounds like you are due for struts and possibly strut mounts all the way around... It may be time to start replacing parts...

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Old 07-11-2006, 12:06 PM   #16
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Won't Midas check the car for free? If they want too much for the repair just tell them you'll have to come back when you have more money.
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Old 07-11-2006, 12:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Won't Midas check the car for free? If they want too much for the repair just tell them you'll have to come back when you have more money.
Good Point...

Pete you been to Midas lately?

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Old 07-11-2006, 08:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Won't Midas check the car for free? If they want too much for the repair just tell them you'll have to come back when you have more money.
Good Point...

Pete you been to Midas lately?
I do know I need struts. I won't have the money for struts for a while, since I'm guessing it'll be at least $800 including mounts for all 4, then another couple hundred for ball joints and maybe TR ends. I won't have any choice but to do two struts at a time, which means my brother wouldn't be getting rent from me for a couple months. (I also have a big leak in my brake line(*) and I have to refill the damn fluid every day. )

My tires are at 35psi, so it isn't the tires. I'm betting I'm looking at around $1500 for struts, Ball Joints, new brake lines and tie rod ends. Sure would be nice if I got paid more. I may try the ball joints on my own anyway. Won't have the money for the parts until the 21st, so let'* hope my wheel(*) don't fall off on the highway before then!

Sorry for venting...
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Old 07-11-2006, 08:09 PM   #19
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Bud if you lived closer we could tackle this stuff... I'd curse your car for a while but in the end all would be good...LOL

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Old 07-11-2006, 08:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Bud if you lived closer we could tackle this stuff... I'd curse your car for a while but in the end all would be good...LOL
I am cursing the car. I'm extremely overwhelmed with what has to be done, especially the brake lines, which I just researched and found is several, several hundred dollars. I read about the double flaring fix and am just too overwhelmed to attempt that myself. The suspension seems so bad that I don't even think it'* a good idea to drive it, but I drive 90 miles a day for work and don't have another car to drive. All I need now is the tranny to act up again. I'm just really pissed...
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