I am going to change and fix the LIM / UIM leak that I have and I need help with all the parts I may need.

1. Which gaskets work for you and there part numbers?
2. What else needs to be changed or repaied when this procedure is tackled?
3. Becarefull with ___________ (fill in the blank)
4. Part numbers for what ever I need will be great.

After posting a thread about Bob Dillon and his fix, I did not receive any negative feed back so I might go with his fix, but just in case, What is the part number for the UIM at
AUTOZONE or PEPBOYS?

I have read the archives and found a good article written by Bill Buttermore, thanks for the link in my other thread.

whats the link i think i'm going to be tackling this in my bonnevile before the winter hits.

this is the link to the write up
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...565&highlight=

Does anyone sell an EGR pipe that is made for the old LIM and is sized down to fit into a stock UIM inner diameter to give the necessary airgap needed?

I still have a couple of reduced diameter stovepipes ($10) and sleeves ($5) available for those who want to try the fix outlined in the thread cited above. If Bob D. does your sleeve, you won't need a sleeve from me, but unless you want to make your own, I don't know where else you can get a reduced diameter ss pipe. PM if you are interested.



Here is a picture of my current inventory. These are pieces I made to test production methods. The overall heights are close to identical, but the shoulder heights vary somewhat. (Shoulder height is not critical.) The sholulder ODs are identical, and that'* what provides the fit. I have some more sleeve stock to cut if there is a demand.

Bill sent me one of his reduced diameter stovepipes, and it'* a nice piece. I didn't have it when I installed the sleeved UIM on my own car, but for a lousy $10, I sure would have! .

What are some signs of the uim failing. I'm not leaking any Coolant or anything i have noticed that when ireplaced my Alternator that there was a lot of grease and crap underneath the Alternator near the Intake manifold tho i dont know i might just replace it for the fact of just doing it. It'* got a 109k on the odo so i'm sure it woudn't hurt.

First indication of UIM failure is usually loss of coolant at a greater rate than evaporation, which is very slow. If the leak is to the outside, coolant running down over the transaxle. Otherwise, no external leaks or drops underheath the car, but coolant level continuously dropping indicating an internal leak. This does not for sure indicate a bad upper; it may be a failure of the lower intake gaskets to the cylinder head, or in very rare cases, a bad head gasket. Internal failure of the upper can result in coolant drawn into the combustion chamber whcih you may be able to see by examining your plugs. If it is a trickle into one cylinder, that plug will appear cleaner than the rest. Coolant through the combustion chamber will destroy your oxygen sensor, too.

The uppers can fail catastrophically too. One minute everything is fine, the next, tons of white smoke as coolant pours into the combustion chambers.

A cooling system pressure test will reveal if you have an internal leak.

When removed, the upper plastic manifold typically looks OK around the stovepipe until you start to test its integrity with a sharp pick. The heat carbonizes the plastic leaving a soft, porous residue that appears to be solid plastic, but is really rotten.

I highly suggest using the sleeves made by Bill. Either that, or get a fully installable UIM from Bob Dillion. It'* the sure bet that you won't see a failure down the road.

I'm willing to bet that the lower intake gaskets take a dump before my Bob Dillion upper fails!