Leaking fuel injector seal
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Phoenix, AZ

Yes, willwren. I guess I wasn't too clear. I ended up buying a new injector for $75 (GP Sorensen @ Autozone) and got the official o-ring kit from my dealer. I replaced the o-rings on the new injector w/ ones from the kit as well as all o-rings on the other 5 injectors. They seemed like a slightly new spec as they were blue and looked a tad bit thicker. It kinda scared me how well everything went back together without a hitch.
I took the car out this morning for another test, this time w/ the gas cap closed
. It seems to accelerate more authoritively now and the startup was instantaneous. I'm wondering if the bad injector was causing a slow pressure leak. It also helped that put in a new battery yesterday, too.
Here in Phoenix my experience is that no matter what quality, batteries last 2 summers. Not 2 years but 2 summers. I generally take the battery in after 2 summers for a new one whether or not it tests bad rather than wait and have to change it in a freaking hot parking lot miles from home (they always seem to die in the summer). I'll take the prorated exchange credit hit any day compared to that!
I still have about 15 seconds worth of lousy throttle response upon cold startup - I've had this issue for at least a year now, but once that'* past, it runs very good. And I still think the acceleration is a bit flat compared to a '98 my in-laws owned a couple years back. when I measeured the fuel pressure last winter, I think it was about 40 PSI which is under-spec if I remember right. But it was solid and did not move at all during driving. I'm going to measure it again when I get the chance.
I took the car out this morning for another test, this time w/ the gas cap closed
. It seems to accelerate more authoritively now and the startup was instantaneous. I'm wondering if the bad injector was causing a slow pressure leak. It also helped that put in a new battery yesterday, too.
Here in Phoenix my experience is that no matter what quality, batteries last 2 summers. Not 2 years but 2 summers. I generally take the battery in after 2 summers for a new one whether or not it tests bad rather than wait and have to change it in a freaking hot parking lot miles from home (they always seem to die in the summer). I'll take the prorated exchange credit hit any day compared to that!I still have about 15 seconds worth of lousy throttle response upon cold startup - I've had this issue for at least a year now, but once that'* past, it runs very good. And I still think the acceleration is a bit flat compared to a '98 my in-laws owned a couple years back. when I measeured the fuel pressure last winter, I think it was about 40 PSI which is under-spec if I remember right. But it was solid and did not move at all during driving. I'm going to measure it again when I get the chance.
Accelleration is flat compared to the 98 simply because you have the older motor.
Your cold start is likely a dirty throttle body and IAC. Follow the procedure in Techinfo to fix that.
Sounds like things are coming together fo you. Find the time to hook up with Echo if you can. He'* a great guy. Or better yet, be a second drive for him at the end of July! Go west!
Your cold start is likely a dirty throttle body and IAC. Follow the procedure in Techinfo to fix that.
Sounds like things are coming together fo you. Find the time to hook up with Echo if you can. He'* a great guy. Or better yet, be a second drive for him at the end of July! Go west!
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