Just finished the engine Swap turn the key - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-15-2007, 09:24 AM   #1
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Default Just finished the engine Swap turn the key

The engine turns over I have fuel in the fuel rail but will not start
Will I get any codes when it has not started on this year car?
I am thinking it is ignition issue at this point
Almost there!
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Old 06-15-2007, 09:27 AM   #2
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What did you swap?

What wiring did you use?

Is the ICM connector on, snug? Take if off.. wiggle around while someone cranks.. if one of the pins isn't making contact.. you'll have a no start.
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Old 06-15-2007, 10:09 AM   #3
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Also, check the harness at the firewall connector. If the harness was removed at that point that is.

Check your ICM grounds too, as well as your cam and crank sensors.
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Old 06-15-2007, 10:29 AM   #4
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Default Engine Swapped Long Story Hoping for Happy Ending

BB /SR
I bought this car and got burned on it badly
Hole in #4 piston as the previous owner did not do any plug maintenance
Swapped in a replacement motor fro JY( Engine #2) Paid a shop to do this as I had no time or place to work on it! It cost me a bucket full of $$$$
That motor lasted 5 weeks and spun a rod or main bearing. It had a 90 day warranty. I have taken it back now and got my money back!
We pulled Engine #1 apart to find the original problem and see what the damage was.
Piston had a hole 3/4 inch across the top of the piston. Cylinder wall is scored bad enough that honing it will not fix. Figure junk the block!
Engine #3 found at a local JY. Engine #3 came out of a 95 Riviera Vin1 Series 1
This time It is me and the brother in law(Recent Retired millwright) acting as the Mechanics. (Heavy on the acting part!)
We pulled the pan and UIM and LIM and took a good look at Engine #3
Looks good installed new gaskets did a leak down Cylinder test.
Last night I finished putting it all back in the car.
Car is still on jack stands and passenger side tire and splash guard are still off so I can look underneath easily.
I swapped the wiring harness from what was on the Bonneville Engine #1 to #2 to Engine #3. Only other parts swapped over where */C and the OIl filter adapter as the Riv did not have the Engine Oil Cooler lines
We cleaned up everything we could on this motor as we went along.
I am thinking I will check the harness connections at the firewall first
Next the ignition coil pack connections and grounds.
Will Crank /Cam sensor give you a no start?
We did not swap them over from Engine #1 so I have spares so to speak.
It cranks
I have fuel in the fuel rail so that really leaves ignition or a sensor issue right?
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:24 AM   #5
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Pretty sure a crank/cam sensor not being plugged in will give a no-start. When I swapped my motor, here are the issues we had when we attempted to start:

1) Harness at the firewall was off-kilter. Power was getting to the fuel pump, but nothing else.

2) Coil packs were transposed.

Those were the only issues that kept the engine from starting IIRC. Funny thing about L67 junkyard engines...most of the time, you will never know its true mileage since most of the cars they came in had digital odometers, and most junkyards don't even keep up with the mileage on incoming stock. Hopefully this time you got a winner!
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:26 AM   #6
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Crank sensor being disconnected will keep it from running. I wouldn't assume the sensor to be bad if you didn't disturb it.

The ICM connector.. that'* experience talking there..lol It took a slight bending of the pins on the ICM for them all to make contact. Then it fired right up.

When you say fuel at the rail..I'm assuming 30+lbs?
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:45 AM   #7
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Default Fuel Rail

On the fuel rail I have no way to check the actual pressure at this time.
I can hear the FP cycle when I turn on the ignition switch.
I did the rag and press the shrader valve pin and it squirted out fuel
Since the F/P was not touched assuming it is ok
Fuel tank is near full.
I will do the double check on the iginition module and the Firewall harness.
I have a second complete Ignition Module Coil pack I can swap in as well
Couple other questions since I scanned the forum a bunch for this effort
Are the Bosh Platinum plugs that bad in this engine?
The first engine swap got a brand new set of Bosh plugs.
Also is Premium fuel a must? The owners manual states you can use regular but with reduced performance.
With our gas prices here at 1.20 a litre (Translates to about 5.40 a gallon US for Premium it is costly.
I am trying to make this a daily driver!
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Old 06-15-2007, 11:52 AM   #8
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The waste spark system destroys the bosch plugs in record time... use them at your own choice. You will be replacing them soon enough.

Premium fuel.. 91 octane is a minimum. While your manual might state you can use regular with reduced power..well..the truth is.. any knock is bad and any fuel below 91 is probably causing knock. I am also on my third motor and not taking a chance.
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Old 06-15-2007, 08:39 PM   #9
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Another thing to consider while you verify spark is How old is that gas?
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:25 AM   #10
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Default Long night Friday

I went through the harness again and made sure the crank and Cam sensors where truly plugged in.
Swapped the ICM and Coils and same issue
No Spark
Gas was fresh before Engine #2 went bad in May
I have a Mechanic taking a look tonight I hope with a scanner to see what the code is that the car is kicking.
At least it might point in one direction or another
I priced the OBM1/2 readers here and 399.00 seems a bit much to pay for one
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