You very well may have just had low fluid from your brakes being worn, and the fluid is taking up space where the pistons are pushed out further. That would be for your *front* brakes, by the way. The rears should physically adjust by unscrewing the self-adjuster to make up the space of your worn pads. So if your fluid is down, check your *front* brake pads. (You can check your rear brake pads too, for good measure.)

Also, my wife'* 2001 Grand Prix GT would have a brake light come on during driving some times when applying the brake pedal, and then it would go out when driving until applying the pedal again. This turned out to be a corroded and leaking brake line, so make sure you either perform a complete inspection, or have a mechanic inspect your entire brake system. A small leak anywhere could cause low fluid, and refilling may fix it for now and it may show up again later.

Or it could be just worn brakes. Thus inspecting is mandatory!

Let'* reiterate here.

The light shouldn't come on unless you are low on fluid. If you are low on fluid, you'll want to ask the question. "In a sealed system, where did it go?"

The system is designed that if properly filled at the factory, it should never be low due to the caliper pistons.

I ended up replacing the master cylinder this weekend as the leak was there again. Project ran smoothly about two hours as given. No more leaks!! Thanks for the help guys.

Those pesky master cylinders! Glad you fixed it, and glad you reported back what fixed it. Brake light coming on almost always indicate *something* has gone wrong, somewhere.

Ok...I'm going to chime in on this post too.

My 94 started showing the brake light and dinging about a month ago. First in the mornings and lasted about 3 miles. Wether started getting cooler....then lasted about 5 miles and then 10.

I just havent time to do more than check fluid level which is ok. There is no problem with braking...everything feels good in that department. Then last week...I realized that ...if I snatched the car to the right..at speed...the light and dinger would stop.

I had a friend in the car last week and we were joking about it as I showed him the ****** technic I discovered and how wierd it was that this little move had the effect on on whatever my issue was. While waiting on him at a store...for kicks...I grabbed the manual and it said to pull over and call a wrecker....so we had another laugh.

I visit here tonight for several issues...it seems my 94 has hit its engineered product obselescence (sp)....more to follow in other posts.

I first started scanning and searching for topics before clogging the system and noticed from the mod'* pinned post that there are a lot of 92-97 owners this week with failures.

Reading this thread I see posts from respected members that this brake light deal isnt as funny I thought.

I also had several other things happen in the last few weeks....an hour ago...the car was hard to start and when it did would barely run....I almost didnt make it back to the garage. I will post on this issue seperatly.

But...the brake issue...you guys have spooked me now...looks like I have big bills/rtroubles in the near future or maybe need to reconsider the "SALE BY DATE:"

Is there any tests to perform to determine actual failure short of plowin' in to some old lady?

Luckily...I own two Bonnys. the other is a 90 sse I have had for 12 years and tucked away in the garage...charger on it now. Back to ol' blue.

I know that one Master Cylinder test is with the car idling on flat ground, in park, press the brake pedal to the floor with as much pressure as your leg can produce. Literally "stand on the brake". If the pedal slowly sinks, that indicates a leak. A properly working braking system should be able to handle the most powerful pressure you can muster with your legs. If it can't, you're going to have a problem stopping your several-thousan-pound car from highway speeds.

However, this test has not always indicated a problem when I've had one. I've found that with a failing master cylinder, eventually the pedal mysteriously goes to the floor, with no resisting pressure. That'* a sure sign of a bad master cylinder.

And I wouldn't by any means consider the need for brake system components the retirement of a car. ANY car can need brake system components, even a relatively new car. I consider it standard maintenance. Eventually, you're probably going to need a master cylinder on a car. Consider it part of the total cost of ownership, and it'* not that bad.

thanks bugsi.

its not just the brake issue....an hour or so ago.....out of nowhere and without provocation....the caer was hard to start...took several tries.

After starting it was stumbling all over itself and when left to idle sounds like its got a monster cam i it and finally dies. Patting the gas will kinda get it past the stumble and it will hold RPM but with a noticible eratic stutter.

last week...I close the trunk and got i the car and heard(felt) this huge bang...the tension rod that lifts the trunk just snapped into two pieces.

Car developes a whirring sound when running

have a banging sound and squeeks in right front suspension


just a lot of things...seems like an expiration date...it ALL HAPPENED SORTA AT ONCE.

Im not giving up...bonnevilles are my favorite car for the money.

total ride, style, drive and performance....and they fit me

Just some cost figures on that master cylinder. I got it at Schucks/ Kragen/ Checker (depending on your area) for about $80. Brake fluid $5. Line wrench $10 and about two hours from start to finish isn't bad considering a shop would have charged well over $100. I got it done for $95.

RE that front brake job: Were the caliper bleeder screws opened when the caliper pistons were pushed home in their bores? The reason is that heavy contaminants in the brake fluid tend to accumulate to a low spot behind the piston in the calipers. If the pistons are simply pushed back in without opening the bleeders, contaminated brake fluid gets pushed backwards into the master cylinder. Often, a few months later, the master cylinder fails because of the abrasive and corrosive effects of this dirty old fluid. By opening the bleeders as the pistons are slowly pushed home, that nasty black fluid can be harmlessly flushed out.

update...the stumbling turned out to be a failed/failing fuel pump. I also noticed the water pump leaking while up on the rack...so replaced it to.

The brake issue was because of low fluid condition that my old eyes misread the level indicator. Still havent found a leak where it may have lost the fluid. So...with these considertions......

All is well now with the 94.

thanks for the help