Idler Pulley Failure.... - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-17-2006, 07:41 PM   #1
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Default Idler Pulley Failure....

I've not gotten around to replacing my SC Coupler yet and then a pulley fails..... Plastic disentegrated in the center of the pulley and slid back on the shaft leaving the belt riding on the hub. I was an hour from home, so I called my wife and had her use the forum to determine that Yes... you can drive a Series II..(96 and newer) Supercharged Bonnie with the SC unhooked... So I hacksawed the belt. Guess what... that 3800 is no slouch without the supercharger! AND I got 25.3 miles per gallon... up from 20 with SC hooked up and turning.

Anyway.... The idler pulley in question is right behind the motor mount. Do I really have to unhook the motor mount to change this thing?

Also... Is there any problem with driving the Bonnie long term with the SC belt off? I know it might see sacreligous to some of you guys on here..... and trust me, I like the kick in the pants when the SC is turning.... but I get my speed fix in the air, not on the ground, and I sure like the extra fifty miles per tank I get with it off. Maybe when the gas prices come back down a little...... Just looking at options.

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Mike
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Old 08-17-2006, 07:58 PM   #2
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Yes, you have to remove the motor mount to get to the pulley right behind it.

As far as long term running without the supercharger, it has been asked before and most agree that it is not a good idea to go too long without it.

EDIT: I searched some past topics and it seems that there may not be any issues running w/o the SC belt for an extended period of time. But you might want to let others chime in before finalizing your decision.
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:55 PM   #3
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That pulley is a [email protected]#CH !!!! I got lazy and paid my mechanic to change it.. way too much hassle

You can run without the */C for a while. ( I had for bout 3 weeks ). The boost gauge show I was in boost when I got on her twice though WTF ?!?!?!

I do baby her when the */C is off.. I believe by theory that the sensors should be able to compensate mixture ( worse case you may run a lil richer then normal ).. however I think the efficiency will drop since its SUCKING the air now all thru the Rotors and wat not of the non running */C.
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Old 08-17-2006, 08:59 PM   #4
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I had the excat same thing happen to me about a month ago http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=59304

I drove my bonne a few days without the */C & as far as I'm aware of there is no harm in driving a Series 2 L67 without a belt on the */C. The rotors in the */C will become a restriction to air flow though.

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Old 08-19-2006, 09:40 AM   #5
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Well... I've run a full tank and a half through her so far with no problem.... As this is an SE car with the L67 option, there is no boost gauge, so I can't address the boost gauge issue. But I'd estimate that it'* running about 85% - 90% of the power she had with the SC running. So if all those rotors in the way are hurting efficiency, I can't really tell. If you normally drive without putting your foot in it, I don't think you'd really notice it was unhooked.

I was thinking maybe I should spin the SC with a cordless drill every now and then to make sure everything in there stays well oiled.... what do you guys think?

Are there specific directions on here for removing the motor mount and changing this pulley? Does it require a pulley puller or does the whole assembly just come off?

Thanks!
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:40 AM   #6
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Butt dyno you may not notice.. but if you monitor MPG as anal as I do.. you'll notice a difference.. after I put the */C belt back on.. by 3rd tank.. it jumped way back up ( or back to normal )
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Old 08-20-2006, 03:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeamondo
I was thinking maybe I should spin the SC with a cordless drill every now and then to make sure everything in there stays well oiled.... what do you guys think?
I wouldn't do that; the air moving through the */C rotors will cause them to spin anyway so everything in the nose drive will oil itself that way. Don't worry about it not being hooked up & about the MPG mine dropped when mine was off but I'll attribute that to me really standing on it and stretching those gears out

Better MPG = Low rpm Boost > high rpm N/A lol

Ed
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:45 AM   #8
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Are you guys saying your MPG DROPPED when you unhooked the SC? Mine has gone UP 5 MPG....... Was getting 20.5 ish... now over 25 with the SC unhooked...
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Old 08-21-2006, 03:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeamondo
Are you guys saying your MPG DROPPED when you unhooked the SC? Mine has gone UP 5 MPG....... Was getting 20.5 ish... now over 25 with the SC unhooked...
Now could that be from

A.) you know the */C is off.. so you don't drive as hard or accelarate as hard
B.) you push your pedal to the same level as you normally would.. but with the fact that you have less air, you demand less fuel.. and accelarate a lil slower then normal.. but foot pedal tells you otherwise. ??
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Old 08-21-2006, 03:25 PM   #10
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that mount is pretty straight forward.

Jack that side of the car and support with a stand. Pull wheel and splash guard. Jack gently w/board to support motor from oil pan. Pull power steering pump (2 13mm bolts through the pulley holes, don't remove pulley) Remove belts.. Take body side of motor mount out, remove the rest of the motor side mount.. replace pulley by removing bolt in the center of it..

Consider the remainder of the pulley'* while you are here. As well.. you need to do all this to get to the waterpump. at this point....it'* a good consideration.
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