1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

I believe I killed my new PIF transmission...

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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 12:03 PM
  #11  
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What is the optimal level on the stick? I've got mine midway in the maximum operating level area. According to the stick if you're not in the max level area a pint is needed.

The other day I was just at the first hatch mark for max level so I added a pint and that put it in the middle.



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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
I think the 3.29/3.33 would go great with your combo... iirc there were some years of the 4T60-E that had a 3.43 ratio, but I think those were attached to the quad 4... Its still the same 60-E tho
The 3.4 DOHC engines came with the 3.43 gearing too.
Whenever I get around to my trans I'm going with that ratio and a stock 3.4 DOHC stall converter.

I would stick with the 3.73s if you were gonna put a crazy cam in and kill your low end along with some midrange. But you have a mild cam and a decent, broad, powerband to make use of. You don't want to zip right past that.
I was trying to sell you and Doug the 3.43s before. Maybe you'll fall for it his time?
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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I think Rogue said somewhere he always runs with an extra quart added. :? :?:

edit: it was just a half quart. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...on+fluid+quart
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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i though when the trans its at its "max temp" its suppose to be at the top of the hatch area :?
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 02:04 AM
  #16  
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Anywhere in the crosshatch zone is the recommended safe zone. Always measured HOT and level of course.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 04:16 AM
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And measured with the vehicle running in Park or Neutral so there is fluid being circulated. You would be amazed at how high the fluid was in my tranny once I figured out what I was looking for... 3-4 inches above the cross-hatched area on the dipstick

So now you all have me reconsidering on the 3.73 gears. I had just made a final decision with Doug on the phone today, and then I come on here and read this stuff! You're making it pretty damn hard for me to make up my mind. Honestly there has been nothing wrong with the 3.73 ratio in daily driving, aside from the 17-18mpg around town and 25mpg on the interstate. I enjoy the quick acceleration, and it gives me opportunity to swap in a really big cam that makes peak power up higher.

However, I can totally understand the argument for 3.33/3.43s. They are a better "middle-of-the-road" ratio and would suit my current setup beautifully, especially on street tires (not enough grip with the 3.73 ratio). I'll think about it more and give Doug a call tomorrow.

It seems as though the popular opinion is to go with the 3.33/3.43 setup. Any other opinions and/or reasons for choosing a particular ratio?
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 07:27 PM
  #18  
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Maybe just do the 3.43 setup and if your not satisfied just swap in the 3.33 diff to make a 3.73 FDR?
Swapping the diff wouldn't be too involved and your wouldn't have to crack the sidepan like you would if you wanted to change the ratio on a 3.33 trans.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Thought about that, but I made a final decision for the 3.73 ratio today. I've enjoyed having it, and it will allow me to move to a bigger cam whenever I get the itch.

We're also looking at a 3500 stall converter
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 08:01 PM
  #20  
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Get some spring blockers and slicks and say helllo low 60 foots.
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