Hub Assenbly problems? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-08-2006, 12:56 AM   #1
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Default Hub Assenbly problems?

I have a 92 bonneville sse. I have had an annoying rumbling sound coming from front passenger side wheel. Almost sounds like the tire is rubbing but it is not. It is worse when I have any pressure steering towards the left. Do any of you have any idea what it could be. I am thinkeng the hub assembly, but I have been wrong many times before. Thanks for any help!!
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Old 11-08-2006, 01:11 AM   #2
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its the wheel bearing....i delt with the noise for 4 years before i replaced it.....perfectally quite now
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Old 11-08-2006, 08:09 AM   #3
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The noise you mention sounds like a hub bearing, check thoroughly and ensure which side is bad.
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Old 11-08-2006, 11:00 AM   #4
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If your steering to the left and hear the noise its the right Pass side bearing.
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Old 11-08-2006, 12:52 PM   #5
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Jack your car up so that the problem wheel is in the air. Put your hands on the wheel in the six and nine o clock positions and see if the wheel has play in it. If it does then it'* the wheel bearing.
If you need to replace it here is a guide.

Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly Removal and Installation
Special tools needed:
34mm axle nut socket
1 jack stand
3/8" allen wrench
Torx T55 Bit
Torque wrench
Large c-clamp or break tool
Tools that make it easier:
Impact gun or breaker bar
PB Blaster
A gear puller that will work with the size of the hub

1. Make sure the car is in park and your e-brake is on
2. Break wheel lugs loose and axle nut (34mm) if you have aftermarket rims
If you cannot get to the nut by taking off a center cap, move on the the next step
If the axle nut gives you trouble soak it in PB Blaster and use a breaker bar
If you have air tools and an impact gun, even better
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3. Jack up the car using the engine cradle or unibody below the front door
It is recommended that you use a jack stand under the subframe since you will be breaking rusted bolts loose
If you could not get to the axle nut before now is your chance
If the axle nut gives you trouble see step 2
4. Remove caliper using a 3/8" allen wrench
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5. Have something tall enough to rest the caliper on so it isnít hanging by the brake line
6. Remove rotor
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7. Remove the axle nut completely
8. Unplug the ABS sensor
9. Put car in neutral
10. Rotate the hub to gain access to 3 T55 bolts
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11. Remove each bolt through the larger hole in the hub
12. Gently tap the axle with a mallet as well as the back of hub to break it free from the steering knuckle
If it gives you trouble you can soak it in PB Blaster and/or use a gear puller
13. Remove old hub assembly
14. Remove the metal guard that the ABS sensor attaches to and put it on the new hub assembly the same way
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15. Take new hub assembly, feed the ABS sensor plug through the steering knuckle and put axle though the new unit
16. Bolt new hub assembly to the knuckle by tightening each T55 bolt down a little at a time and spinning the assembly
17. Once the T55 bolts are tightened completely, put the car in Park
18. Tighten the axle nut down with a torque wrench to recommended torque given with the new unit
19. Plug ABS sensor back in
20. Install rotor
21. Push brake caliper piston back using a c-clamp or brake tool
22. Install caliper using 3/8 allen wrench
23. Mount wheel and make lug nuts snug
24. Lower car and tighten lug nuts in star pattern
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Old 11-08-2006, 03:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Jack your car up so that the problem wheel is in the air. Put your hands on the wheel in the six and nine o clock positions and see if the wheel has play in it. If it does then it'* the wheel bearing.
6 and 9???? Tyipcally you can't get enough definative play in the wheel (unless the bearing is brutally shot) to tell that it'* the bearing.

3 and 9 play is usually a tie rod/steering linkage issue
6 and 12 possibly using a long jack handle or prybar is typically a ball joint.
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Old 11-08-2006, 05:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Jack your car up so that the problem wheel is in the air. Put your hands on the wheel in the six and nine o clock positions and see if the wheel has play in it. If it does then it'* the wheel bearing.
6 and 9???? Tyipcally you can't get enough definative play in the wheel (unless the bearing is brutally shot) to tell that it'* the bearing.

3 and 9 play is usually a tie rod/steering linkage issue
6 and 12 possibly using a long jack handle or prybar is typically a ball joint.
Thats what a mechanic friend told me and the couple times I had one go out I did have noticeable play.
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:48 AM   #8
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Thanks alot guys. I cant do any work right now on it since tonight on my way home from work in rush hour, It just up and died on me in the fast lane, right on a turn where noone could see me untill they almost nailed me, I have zero power, couldnt even put on flashers. was shining a flah light out the rear window. to try and alert oncoming traffic. I called the police and it took them half an hour to get there. It was a very dangerous situation. I believe the battery is shot, I know it is. but I think I have other probs as well. insrument panel, just put in alternator. Im about ready to lose my cool with this car. I am just glad I didn't have my daughter with me. But my car sits in downtown Denver untill tomorrow when I can try and deal with it. Thanks again, Ill investigate that hub bearing after that. Much appreciated. any other advice is very welcomed!!
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:39 AM   #9
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Check the battery cables at both ends. Corrosion is our enemy and it hits us at the worst times.
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Old 11-09-2006, 06:33 PM   #10
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One thing at a time. You will get it back on its feet.

Boost is, of course, is right about the cables. Don't just look at 'em, remove 'em and look at 'em. At least a half dozen times I have had non-visible problems with them.

One thing on the hub removal. Cracking that spindle loose from the hub might be a total bear. Autozone has a zero cost rental tool that works great. It pops the spindle, and then you can fidget it around to help get the hub free from the housing. Saves a little mallet pounding and swearing.
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