How to change brakes? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-17-2006, 05:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1995
That should include both sides (4 pads total).Same goes for the back also. Not sure on brand or type, bet someone will come in and have a recommendation for ya.
That'* a price for both sides. If you're tired of cleaning brake dust off your wheels, go with ceramics.

Have the rotors turned or buy new ones either way.
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Old 09-17-2006, 07:19 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Apparently the self-adjusters work poorly, if at all.
Personally, in ALL the years I've been driving cars with "Self-Adjusting Brakes", I've never found ONE that would Self-Adjust properly. I manually adjust mine twice a year. Once in mid-November when I'm switching the "All-Season" Tires to the Real Season Snow Tires. And again in April when I switch back to the All-Season tires. Manually adjusting ones brakes DOES make quite a difference.
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Old 09-17-2006, 08:39 PM   #13
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i just changed my brakes yesterday.

Its really not as hard as you would think. Just take the allen screws there are TWO, and change the pads, Of course check the disc ROTORS make sure they are smooth and no bumps , my friend recommended i change mine , since there was signs of bumps.

I purchased the GOLD Durlast brake pads, its $29.99 i bought 4 pads in total and 2 disc rotors since they both had bumps on the rotors.

Also i bought 2 Brake cleaning fluid sparys helps clean up any metal that was left inside.

In total i spent about $114 in AutoZone , Big difference my pads were pretty much gone the rotor were ok but id rather pay more money now than to be in an accident.

Also i bought the brake lubricants , my friend told me its good so if you have to change you brake pads it wont be so hard to remove them , just put the brake paste anywhere there is some tension from the clips.

This is my advice anyone else can correct me if im wrong.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:33 PM   #14
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Sounds like a good deal here. Brakes is one thing you don't want to go cheap on. You have done some good preventive maintainence by greasing up those caliper bolts. Makes it alot easier the next time you have to take them off. Plus it helps the calipers return back to their normal position when released. Less wear on the pads and rotor.
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Old 09-18-2006, 10:18 AM   #15
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As easy as it is to change brake pads/rotors, it'* amazing how much shops charge.

I'm doing my brakes two Fridays from now. My pads are close to being completely shot. I'll be changing out my bumpy rotors for some Bendix rotors and ceramics. Should be an easy fix compared to the other work I've done in this. I'll have bled my brakes 3 times in the past 3 months once I'm done.
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Old 09-20-2006, 02:52 PM   #16
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Ok last question. Im gonna try to do this today. What does it mean to loosen the brake fluid reservoir?
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Old 09-20-2006, 02:54 PM   #17
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When you pop your hood...the master cylinder for the brakes is there with the screw on cap. You simply unscrew it and leave it sitting on the threads. When you are done changing the pads, before bleeding (if necessary) tighten it back down.
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:28 PM   #18
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Aright I did it. Only took me about 4 hours. I think I put the outside shoes on backwards, so the wear indicator is on the wrong side. Will this pose a problem? I dont really want to take the calipers off again. Also the left outside pad was worn to about nothing, but the right pads seemed like the werent even worn 50%. Is that a problem too?
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpower9004
Aright I did it. Only took me about 4 hours. I think I put the outside shoes on backwards, so the wear indicator is on the wrong side. Will this pose a problem? I dont really want to take the calipers off again. Also the left outside pad was worn to about nothing, but the right pads seemed like the werent even worn 50%. Is that a problem too?
I'm having a hard time visualizing what you think your error was. Please explain further.

And if they're not correct, yes, you should redo them.
'
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Old 09-20-2006, 11:38 PM   #20
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Theres a metal piece that rubs the rotor when the pads are worn down. The instructions or box (cant remember which) say that the peice should be on the trailing edge of the rotor when the car is moving forward. I think I did it backwards.
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