How to chamge an AC compressor ? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-19-2006, 02:11 PM   #11
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Any suggestions? should I bleed the system and start over? The ac isn't cooling....still clicking on and off.
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Old 08-19-2006, 05:47 PM   #12
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If you could, go back out and start the engine, put the A/C on Max, fan on high, go back to engine and feel both of the A/C lines. Metal part anyway. One should be hot and the other should be cold. Feel the canister at the firewall also.
Is the compressor staying on, or is it cycling on and off quickly. Should stay on for quite a bit then cycle off. Some will say their compressor stays on. Mine cycles on and off with like a 20-30 second delay. Is everything hooked back up correctly. 2 connectors on compressor. Another one about 8 inches up the line, and another one up at the canister at firewall.

Another thing, those Walmart gauge kits are not accurate, you may have to goto parts store and get the manifold gauge set. It monitors the high side and the low side at the same time.
Also, try to see if anyone on here has the FSM pressure values for your make.

How much of the can did it take?
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Old 08-19-2006, 06:36 PM   #13
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I used 1 and 1/2 of the tall cans which has freon & oil together. I done what you mentioned above...felt both lines...one is hot and the other cold. Could having to much pressure cause this problem? It still clicking and not wanting to engage....

Is there a way that I can bleed the compressor from the line or back of it...so I can refill/try it again? Maybe I had the can wrong/tilted it wrong while I added the freon...???
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Old 08-19-2006, 11:27 PM   #14
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Ok, we need a little more clarification on the compressor engaging. Is the clutch engaging and spinning with the pulley, or is it just basically not doing anything at all? We should be seeing engaged for like 20 seconds, and off for a few seconds. Not on for a split second and then off.
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Old 08-20-2006, 04:40 PM   #15
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The clutch is engaging w/the pulley for around 15-20 seconds...but it makes a weird noise...like an air brake sound when switching off...it'* cooling but not as cold as it did before I replaced the compressor.. the sound that it makes what puzzles me ???
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Old 08-20-2006, 10:27 PM   #16
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It seems like the compressor more pressure...Should I bleed off a lil pressure and add more freon?
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Old 08-21-2006, 01:55 PM   #17
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You could try and bleed some off, but I doubt it would work. You need to have the system evacuated so it can accept the new oil/freon. As far as the noise, kinda clueless here. Does it only do it when the clutch is engaged?
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Old 08-21-2006, 02:16 PM   #18
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Mike, the noise concerns me as does the fact that it sounds like you did not evacuate the system before charging it. If you had that system open to change out the compressor and did not pull a vacuum for at least 20 minutes before charging it, your system is compromised.

Moisture will have gotten into the system and that could potentially cause a "slugged" compressor when it tries to compress water (it doesn't work).

While I don't normally want to suggest spending extra money on something, I really feel you need to have the system professionally evacuated and recharged. It shouldn't cost too much and could possibly prevent damage to the new compressor you put in.

I didn't see or can't remember, did you by a remanufactured compressor or a factory new one?
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:24 AM   #19
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Default seahuntmike how much work was it?

Seahuntmike how much work was it to change the compressor out? How long did it take?
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:27 AM   #20
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Should take about an hour..not hard.. just tight spaces.
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