Hot in Louisiana without AC - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-01-2006, 02:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinionlc
I see a problem...after replacing my heater core, I put back on the large plastic housing that went around the heather core. On that housing was a small plastic box (i think it controls the airmix door). On that box is a metal rod, which broke off in reinstallation. I can fix the problem by reattaching the rod, but where does the rod connect to other than the plastic housing?

BTW, I have the manual (3 *****) controller.
BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You found it!

The small plastic box is the airmix actuator, and the rod that comes off the box snaps into a small, white, round connector on the airmix door.

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This pic is looking through a hole, behind the glovebox that shows the rod in place in the white connector. The trick is to line up the rod with the connector and, using a long flat-bladded screwdriver to "pop" the rod back into the connector. The white connector has a v-shaped groove on the top to help guide/line-up the rod. The rod has threads on the end that goes into the white connector and the threads need to be in line with the connector.

So, start your car and set your temperature **** to "Full Hot". Let it run for at least 45 -60 seconds. This moves the "rod" all the way to the passenger side to calibrate the system and moves the rod to line up best with the connector. The airmix door and it'* white connecter should already be over as far as it can go to the passenger side.

Use the screw driver to line up the rod on top of the connector and to "spin/rotate" the white connector until you think/feel/see the rod drop into the v-groove on top. Then carefully use the screwdriver to "pop" the rod into place. If all works well and your actuator (the small black box that the other end of the rod is connected to already) is not broken, you will have heat and cold again under your control.

This process sounds worse than it is and once you look through the hole and see the connector and rod, it starts to make sense. Don't get too frustrated if it takes a few tries to pop the rod onto the connector as lining it up takes some patience and a couple of tries.

Here is a bonus pic showing the rod/actuator location on top of the large plastic housing.
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Old 06-01-2006, 02:06 PM   #12
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Yes, that rod connects from the Actuator to the airmix door. Here'* a description from one of our members when he fixed his. He found a way to reconnect it without taking everything apart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J57ltr
Well guys thanks for all your help we got it "fixed" for now. After setting the door ful right starting the car and raising the temp to 90* I watched the rod retract and at that point I got the slot aligned and used a screwdriver to raise it into position. I found that adding a piece of tape around the shaft about an inch from the point that I could slide the screwdriver under the threaded bar where the small access hole is. When I pushed the screwdriver under the rod it would catch on the tape and I could then place it into the slot (that I lined up earlier). Then using the screwdriver to insert through the hole, pop the rod down into the slot, while holding the door closed with a second screwdriver We did it about 3 times because I wasnít sure if the door was fully closed the first time.

When we started the car we could watch it pull slightly back and then stay. When we moved the control to 60* the door only opened half way. I was able to nudge it with a screwdriver and it opened fully. I thought it wasnít calibrated right so I R&Ríed it for the last time. We cycled between full hot and full cold a few times and I could see the motor either bind up or there are a couple of teeth stripped in a gearbox or something (I donít know if ití* a linear actuator, rack and pinion or crankbell linkage), Iím guessing. After several more times it seemed to start working on ití* own without help. For right now it seems to be fixed but looks to need a new actuator assy.
Hopefully, your airmix actuator isn't toast also. Have you read all the linked threads posted earlier in this thread? There is a ton of info in those threads that should help you a lot.

EDIT: Too slow on the post again, lol. Really good write up Bob. TECHINFO stuff, IMO.
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Old 06-01-2006, 02:08 PM   #13
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The white plastic connector for the rod on the actuator is actually the one that is broken, but only a small piece broke off....i believe that I can fix it with some zip ties.
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Old 06-01-2006, 02:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinionlc
The white plastic connector for the rod on the actuator is actually the one that is broken, but only a small piece broke off....i believe that I can fix it with some zip ties.
That rod pushes and pulls the airmix door to full cold (toward driver side) and full heat (passenger side) and all the ranges in between so make sure the rod stays in the connector and tie it well...good luck and let us know if the zip ties work.
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Old 06-01-2006, 02:32 PM   #15
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I decided that a zip tie wouldn't work as well as a bread tie because I needed the rod to be able to turn. A zip tie would keep it too stationary and put a bind on the actuator. I double bread tied it and lay there under the dash watching the arm move and work well while I was switchng the AC controlers.

Thanks for your help guys! For a while I thought that nobody was going to lend me some information and then I checked back a few days later and ya'll were waiting on me

Once again, thanks! It is hot in Louisiana with this humidity. Bring on the hurricane season!
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Old 06-01-2006, 02:39 PM   #16
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You'll have to check on the bread tie fix every once in a while, as that wire doesn't like to be flexed too many times before it breaks. However, it might last for quite a while before you have to redo it.

And sorry we didn't get to you earlier. Sometimes Echo'* on siesta and I have to call in an Arizona camel to wake him up.

Glad you have air now!
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Old 06-01-2006, 03:09 PM   #17
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So....you have your cold air back? Ah.....great to hear.

I saw your original post the day you posted it, then must have had a mental lapse (yeah, I am old). Luckily the camel was sent to remind me that you had an issue we hadn't addressed, yet.

If those bread ties ever fail, and you need a new plastic connector, we will see if one of our junkyard dawgs can find one.
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Old 06-01-2006, 03:57 PM   #18
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Rock n' roll...thanks guys!
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Old 06-01-2006, 05:48 PM   #19
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One more thing.....in the manual climate control, which position is econ? I have never figured it out.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:19 PM   #20
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"Econ" mode, huh?

Roll the windows down and hope for the best?

I grabbed my owners manual from my '97, and don't see an "econ" mode or setting.

Max A/C uses mostly air from inside the vehicle while A/C draws in outside air. I don't have the service manuals with me, but can look for "econ" later.
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