The squeeze on the upper hose DID reveal a pressure drop as I revved the engine.
Hopefully the pump is OK.
I do have an EGR problem, throwing code.
I will check my records for the age of the O2 sensor.

The engine went into the red right away this time when I was doing that hose check.
From cold to super hot in 10 minutes.
The upper radiator hose actually burnt my hand when I was squeezing it. :?

I'm still confused. Would a bad EGR cause an engine to get that hot that fast?

I would re visit the thermostat install first but thats just my opinion.
The EGR valve recycles exhaust gas into the cylinders that has less oxygen, thus lowering the burn temps in the cylinders and reducing emissions.
Bad EGR'* should not show up at idle but more so when you give it gas.

A questionable system ground can do funky things. One would expect to see other gauges doing strange things as well, but there'* no law that says that has to happen. Poor grounds can drive ya nuts.

I guess what I was trying to say was I think I'd want to know whether or not the engine is really overheating or is the gauge lying. That'* why I suggested an external gauge. Or maybe there'* another way to monitor the actual temperature that someone can suggest. Pull the rad cap off and stick a thermometer in there...then compare it with the temperature gauge?

Maybe the temperature sensor is whacky? It lives just below the thermostat cage...I wonder if there'* a test for it? :?

Do the low cost infrared detectors give temperatures on the top radiator hose for instance that would determine if it'* actually overheated above 195-200? I've seen those at Harbor Freight and was tempted to buy one.

I'm going to try some air purging again tomorrow evening. Take the thermo out and poke around some. Talked to some buddies who own a local parts store and they said they just worked on a Crysler for weeks that kept getting air in the cooling system. They would bleed all the air out and then in a few days - more air. Turned out to be a bad head gasket. I hope that'* just a Crysler thing.

I felt like I had confirmed that flow was actually happening by squeezing the upper hose and revving the engine per SSEBONNIE-4EVA'* advice. The problem was the gauge was showing hot at the time and didn't drop down any even though I could feel the hot coolant going through the upper hose. That has me back to an inaccurate temp reading and not a flow problem. Both sensors are new and acted the same as the old.
Wish I had a scanner, but not sure it would help me or give me more questions.

Oh well, back & forth, I'll evenutally find the issue.