Headlight Hi-Beam Switch - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-02-2005, 12:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Chris'* problem:
Quote:
Does anyone know what part contains the high-beam switch? When I pull my cruise / wiper switch forward like I noramlly would to activate the hi-beams, it just bulls back and doesnt "click" and activate the hi-beams.
The hi-beam switch is activated by a steel rod that runs from the base of the multi-funciton lever to the hi-beam switch, which is mounted at least 8-12 inches farther down the column, as already stated above.

You have two distinctly different problems.
God was my spelling / typing that bad in that original post? I haven't pulled mine apart yet, but if the switch was broken, wouldnt it still click when I pulled it but just not do anything? It does spring back after pulling it towards, but theres no resistance on it at all, and no clicking or other sounds, so I'm wondering if the rod is even moving / attatched. I guess I'll find out tonight, was just curious what these switches actually look like, and if its possible that a bad switch itself would make it not click. Thanks as always.
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:45 PM   #12
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If the lever returns, it sounds fine. I'd be betting on the internal spring/contacts in the switch or a broken/disconnected rod. The switch itself is white on my 93, don't know about my 95. Should be the same.

You can't miss it. Just follow the metal rod down the column to the switch. You can disconnect the connector, hook up an ohmmeter, and test it, or better yet, just turn on your lows, and try to manually actuate the switch.

You'll find it pretty simple. (This advice being directed at one of the few members here that remembers me as a NOOB).
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Old 09-02-2005, 01:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
You have two problems. The base of your multi-function lever is broken. Or the socket to use a better term

You have two distinctly different problems.
Affirmative. It'* clear to me now.
As I said ........the Haynes was unclear.
Thanks.

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Old 09-02-2005, 01:11 PM   #14
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When my bright switch died, it wouldn't click anymore, but still had normal tension. I fiddled with the stalk and the linkage to see if something was binding, and a piece fell out that I couldn't get back in. It'* a black plastic peice that goes in between the lever and the rod. So now there is almost no tension, but the lever does return to the normal spot. Then one day, it went nuts. My brights started flashing on and off for a while, then it finally quit, leaving me with no headlights at all. Got a new switch the next day, but it wasn't gonna do much good if I couldn't actuate it. So it'* mounted under the dash in arms reach until I can figure out how that plastic piece goes back in.
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Old 09-02-2005, 02:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
You'll find it pretty simple. (This advice being directed at one of the few members here that remembers me as a NOOB).
Those were the good ol days. I think I spent most of my entire summer in 02 on these forums and messin with the bonneville. There was a group of us that were pretty regulars I cant believe how much this site has grown since then, its amazing. I spend most of my time these days on the ls1gto.com forums, but still nothing like the amount of time I use to spend here.

Believe it or not I've actually got the bonneville sold :( Just fixing up a few odds and ends before the new owner takes her away next week. Got $2700 for it, w/ 172,000 miles, didint think that was bad?

Thanks for all the help and info, I'll stop back and visit often
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