Head gaskets are leaking...repair or replace? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-18-2008, 01:03 PM   #11
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You will be lucky to get enough to buy a six-pack of very cheap generic beer. Class-action suits are like that. GM will pay, the attorneys will get rich, and you will have $3.28 more than you had the day before.
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:08 PM   #12
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This is best picture I could get without putting the car on a lift (which I don't have).

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Old 01-19-2008, 12:15 PM   #13
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If it'* oil, it'* most likely coming from the corner where the LIM, Heads, and block meet. Typical high-mileage low-pressure 'splash' leak of oil.

If it'* coolant, it'* the LIM gaskets.

I'd suggest doing your valve cover gaskets at the same time for cheap convenience.
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:28 PM   #14
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It'* definately oil. Also, coolant is "disappearing" from my resevoir tank. About a quart every other month. I'll do the valve cover gasket'* myself after the LIM gaskets get replaced (save some $). I've decided that I'm not going to replace these myself - way too complex for me and I'll probably F*&^ something up. First quote by a referral for LIM gasket replacement using Fel-Pro gasket and non-dex coolant is $500.

Additionally, it was recommended that I get an injector cleaning. Since the LIM is coming off, would it best to do that at the same time?

Off topic, my oil pan gasket is also leaking. Is that easy to do?
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:34 PM   #15
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Oil pan gasket is easy, and it'* a good time to do it if you're eating coolant. Some will get in your oil, so you can fully drain the pan by removing it. Do NOT use cork. Use the oem or oem style rubber (re-usable for the lifetime of the vehicle typically). If yours has no rips or tears, simply clean it and the pan (and bottom of the block) and reinstall with no added goop, properly torquing in the correct pattern to the correct value (see Techinfo).

If it'* oil, it'* as I stated above. When you install your new LIM gaskets, it'll come with a small tube of goop for these corners. I like to dab a little in the corners first, then insert the 4 pieces of the gaskets, then dab a little more in the corners. If you do it this way, they will not likely leak for the rest of your ownership of the car.

Your coolant is being sucked into the cylinders on the intake stroke and burned off. You may want to consider replacing your O2 sensor because of this. See the gasket pics in my DEX link. That'* what yours will look like.

Forget the injector cleaning if you run name-brand quality fuel and have no misfires. Our injectors need very little maintenance other than the natural detergents found in modern fuels. Ignore the nasty sludge that appears on the tips (from the EGR and PCV systems) when you remove them for the planned gasket change. It means nothing, and does not affect the spray pattern. Fuel flow keeps the nozzles clean. If you want, lightly spray them with intake-safe cleaner (not carb cleaner) before reinstalling them, and use new o-rings at the top (rail) and bottom (Lim bosses).
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Old 01-19-2008, 12:50 PM   #16
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Thanks a billion!! You have been my life saver on many topics! I truly appreciate the advice. I'll have the tech. replace the LIM gaskets and the oil pan with a new OEM gasket as well as the lower rad. hose (original). I'll do the upper hose (original) and the vavle cover gaskets myself (original). I'll leave the injectors alone for now.

Off topic again, are off the shelf injector cleaner additives helpful or harmful our engines? I'm scared to put that stuff in for fear of ruining anything.
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:41 PM   #17
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They won't hurt anything, but on the other hand, about the only thing they help to do is empty your wallet.
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:17 PM   #18
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Also, go to a GM dealer and buy the aluminum Lower Intake Manifold gaskets, rather that letting your tech use Fel-pro, unless the Fel-pros are the same as the aluminum dealer gaskets. Normally Fel-pro is excellent quality, but in this case GM started using newer aluminum gaskets a couple years ago, and I'm not sure if Fel-pro has followed suit.

Definitely replace those valve-cover gaskets while you have it apart. Again, ours are rubber, not cork. (Bill, that'* the case for the valve-cover gaskets too, right? I know you were talking about the pan gasket.)

And sooner is better than later on this, as your LIM gaskets will get worse, not better, and they will allow your engine to drink more of your coolant over time, until it fills a cylinder and BAM you'll be hydrolocked, and your lower block will be sitting in a mixture of oil and coolant, which can corrode the bearings on the lower block. You'll need a new engine then, if you don't address this soon.
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:00 PM   #19
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Fel-Pro is fine if you lose the DEX.

http://www.zillamotorsports.com/DEX


Aluminum LIM gaskets can be purchased from INTENSE as well.
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:25 PM   #20
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Is one better than the other?

The car is being dropped off tonight. Shop says they can have all repairs done by the end of business tomorrow ( 5pm). Repairs will include:

Valve cover gaskets
LIM gaskets - specified Fel-Pro
Oil pan gasket - specified oem style rubber
Lower radiator hose (was factory)
New coolant - specified non-dex (prestone)
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