Harmonic Balancer Replacement - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-16-2006, 11:04 AM   #1
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Default Harmonic Balancer Replacement

Boy did I get a scare yesterday. When I pulled in the driveway what a noise came from the engine. But thanks to the wonderful information I have gotten from this forum I was pretty sure it was the Harmonic Dampner after giving the engine the once over. If I idled it up, the clanging went away. For the life of me, it sounded like a bad diesel engine.

So any suggestions about changing it? Special tools I should look to borrow from the auto parts store? Torque values? I know that I'll have to work through the wheel well. I have read here that there may be some problems in getting the bolt out because the engine wants to rotate, but with an impact wrench should this be a problem? Anybody know what size socket is needed?

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Old 06-16-2006, 11:09 AM   #2
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I've done both of mine in the last year. Impact would make it easier, but you can remove the dustcover off the flywheel, and jam a large something or other in there to keep it from turning to remove it.

Torque specifications are in Techinfo.

You'll have to get creative with the bolts for the puller. Most pullers don't have the right ones. My suggestion is to get the new balancer first, then go to the parts store and rent or buy the right puller and bolts/washers. Bear in mind that the threads are pretty fine for the 3 bolts you'll need, so make sure you have the puller installed firmly, but not over-tight. I had one strip out on me last July, and I barely got it off. My boss had to weld up a puller on the HB itself for the same reason.

The SE should be easier than the L67'*. You have more room to work with, and the balancer may come off easier.
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Old 06-16-2006, 01:44 PM   #3
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I think the 92 L27 also used a pressure fit for the balancer.... Makes the removal a bit of a PITA.... Be careful with the pullers as I have seen people strip the threads in the crank by using the wrong puuller

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Old 06-16-2006, 04:19 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advice. I try real hard to get pullers installed properly, but even then I seem to hold my breath until things start to move.

I really appreciate this forum.
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Old 06-17-2006, 01:14 AM   #5
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don't do what I did the other day, and ram a long bolt into the crank bolt hole. Yikes, If that engine was supposed to be used, i'd have ruined a perfectly good crank!! (Different engine, and it was no good)
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Old 06-19-2006, 11:39 AM   #6
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Well just a follow-up. Got it changed without any real trouble. The issue of the correct bolts did get me as the puller kit I "rented" did not have ones that fit. The correct bolt is a quarter inch with 28 tpi (1/4 - 2 and I couldn't even find those in the length I needed. I ended up making my own out of some all thread rod, nuts and some washers. It worked fine. The bolt holding the Balancer on is 24 mm.
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Old 06-19-2006, 11:43 AM   #7
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Balancer pulling bolts needed to be standard? Odd..I wonder if they are close enough to the metric equivalent or if they are actually standard.

Anyone else have experience on size/pitch of bolts they use?
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:24 PM   #8
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The balancer bolts are not standard. They are M6x1. 1/4-28 is close, but you had a serious chance of stripping the balancer that way. You're lucky.
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:26 PM   #9
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Bill...you are sure this applies to all or at least most years?
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:28 PM   #10
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Should be from 87 and newer. 92 and newer for sure. Trust me. I checked the threads with 1/4" and M6 at work on my old balancer from the 95.
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