Guess it was bound to happen sooner or later...LIM - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-17-2006, 10:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEiGrl92
Fuel sender you mean?
What would cause my car to suddenly lose oil pressure? Can an oil pump suddenly fail?
No, oil pressure sender.

I've had two oil pump failures: One when the pump tried to digest
shrapnel from an engine explosion and one from a twisted oil pump drivershaft. (both traditional Pontiac V-8s)

I seriously doubt the oil pump'* bad. Look elsewhere first.
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Old 01-18-2006, 01:26 PM   #12
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Looks like I need a motor. When the tech who worked on my car grinded off the old gasket...tiny shreads must have fell down below and ruined the bearings.
I used to work for a salvage yard. they have a motor there and will install it for me. They guarantee their work as well as the motor.
Should I replace anything on this used motor right away upon the installation?
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Old 01-18-2006, 01:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEiGrl92
Fuel sender you mean?
What would cause my car to suddenly lose oil pressure? Can an oil pump suddenly fail?
Yes, it can. My 1993 had the oil pressure check valve stick open I think it was. The oil pressure shot up, blew the oil filter off, then dummped all the oil pressure due to there being no filter. Unfortunately, when this happened, the previous owner didn't shut the car down fast enough, and it took the motor with it. We replaced the pump and had it running fine when I bought it until we took it for it'* first test drive. 1 mile down the road it started knocking like an SOB. Yanked it and put a 28k motor and and she runs like a top.

Good luck with the car. Hopefully the new motor will get you up and running soon.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:23 PM   #14
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sounds like what happened to my car the other week. got off the highway after a 5 and 1/2 hour drive and car started knocking all of a sudden. looked down at the oil pressure at the next stop light and it was in the red just above 0. the engine had thrown a rod bearing and cracked the block......only 82,000 miles on the car. now I have a rebuilt motor in the car and runs great. the previous summer the coolant light had started comming on and off and turns out I was supposedly leaking coolant out because the UIM had cracked.
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:29 PM   #15
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in a used engine i would put all new plugs in it, look for any visible oil leaks, if any, re gasket while its out of the car.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:46 PM   #16
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Will do.....
New plugs, wires, t-stat, pcv....

i'm gonna keep the SC off my old motor and keep it as a spare. it still worked great...no sense in trashing it.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:51 PM   #17
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I would also suggest replacing the rear main seal in the "new" motor. Even if it'* not leaking, it'* good insurance. Changing it in the future involves pulling the engine.
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:53 PM   #18
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See if you can find a 93-95 L67 ... The 94-95 SC and intake will have to be pulled off the motor and your intake and SC installed...

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Old 01-18-2006, 05:41 PM   #19
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Okay, I'll get a rear main seal from my work and have em' put it in.
The motor is out of a 93, so I'm good to go.
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Old 01-18-2006, 05:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEiGrl92
Okay, I'll get a rear main seal from my work and have em' put it in.
The motor is out of a 93, so I'm good to go.
Glad to hear it...

Replace both the Rear Main seal and the Transmission front pump seal... This way you'll not have to go back in there as you should have no leaks for a long time to come..

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