1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Good news maybe? another intake topic

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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 11:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jmandeville
Is it possible that a third explanation for changing the lower intake manifold exists?
In my particular case, I had some etching/pitting on the lower intake manifold gasket surfaces which mate to the heads. The corresponding gasket surfaces on the heads are just fine, but then, the heads are made out of cast iron rather than aluminum....

... if I was a mechanic at a Pontiac garage, I don’t think I’d be doing that for a customer’* car. I would think from the Pontiac mechanic’* perspective, if the condition of the lower intake manifold gasket surfaces could jeopardize the long term successful sealing of the head gaskets, then replacement of the Lower Intake Manifold would be required.
You may have a point there, Jack. However, remember that some of us have had such painful (read expensive) experiences at our local dealers that we are somewhat gun shy and tend to wonder about their "good intentions".

<rant>It still bugs me that there is little to no acknowledgement of this obvious problem at the dealership level when it comes to sharing the cost for such a common issue. This should NOT be a "regular maintenence" item unless it is listed in the owner'* manual as such.<rant off>

Sorry to dilcc for the of topic rant...
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Sorry, I wasn't trying to downplay this whole UIM and head gasket problem or
the existence of shaddy mechanics.

The post was meant as a FYI regarding taking care of our beloved Bonnevilles....

To be honest, I have been negligent about flushing and changing coolant in my cars.
For me this has been a wake-up call.

Additionally, I think it'* something else to look closely at when you are putting in new intake manifold gaskets.
On each side of the gasket is a metal surface, and I would think they had better be in good condition.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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it'* all good guys, i REALLY appreciate the help and discussion.

I thought while I was getting the work done it would make sense to do a flush as well. I think it'* been a while
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 11:53 AM
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Flushing your coolant wouldn't have anything to do with the degradation.

To take that a step further, even GM claims that your coolant is good for 150,000 miles.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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Good to know. For some reason I thought i remember something about 5 years... Not sure.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by vital49
Flushing your coolant wouldn't have anything to do with the degradation.

To take that a step further, even GM claims that your coolant is good for 150,000 miles.
This is the Dex-Cool Long-Life coolant you are talking about (for clarity). And I would add that an important factor w/long-life coolant is that you always keep the coolant level up. It is known that LL coolant and air do not make for a good mix and can be corrosive to your engine. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by lash
Originally Posted by vital49
Flushing your coolant wouldn't have anything to do with the degradation.

To take that a step further, even GM claims that your coolant is good for 150,000 miles.
This is the Dex-Cool Long-Life coolant you are talking about (for clarity). And I would add that an important factor w/long-life coolant is that you always keep the coolant level up. It is known that LL coolant and air do not make for a good mix and can be corrosive to your engine. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...
You hit the nail right on the head.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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Lets add to that nail, our overflow tanks are wide open if you look at the caps...Therefore maybe a coolant tank flush and cleaning is in line more often than we think.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:46 PM
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Thanks for all the kind words, guys. As an informational item, I do have 2 sleeved uppers sitting on my workbench ready to ship. $35 plus actual shipping cost to your zipcode (priority mail) and then you return your failed upper to me postpaid cheapest way. I'n in no hurry to get them back, but I would appreciate promptness in returning the core when the swap is done.

Mine has 40K on it with no leakage, but the unsleeved ones last that long, so I believe we need more time to be certain. I myself am confident the problem has been solved.

I have one of Bill Buttermore'* reduced diameter stovepipes, but didn't have it before the swap, and my car had the 5/8" one anyway (a late '99 car). I would recommend it for anyone doing this swap whose car has the larger stovepipe.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 01:44 PM
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On a side note, still sort of related to the overall heat issue, does removing the plastic engine cover along with the underside hood insulation have any effect of better engine heat dissipation? Would there be any side effects on the hood'* paint finish with more heat flow through it? I've just been wondering about it. I'm also planning on a 180 thermostat, at least for the summer.
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