Ghetto rig performance - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-07-2002, 11:14 PM   #1
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Default Ghetto rig performance

my friend has a 92 mustang, he brought some flexible metal dryer hose cut a hole in his air intake box and ran the tubbing through one of his air dam lights, he says its higher performace at higher speed, understandable since air is beign forcefully pushed into air intake but is this ok only cost like 8 bucks but will it **** any **** up.
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Old 12-07-2002, 11:29 PM   #2
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Yes this works but probably doesn't add too much hp. Go to "willwren'*" website through one of his posts and check out his pics of his airbox. Also go to http://www.angryducktofuracing.com and check out intakes. Click on products, engines, then intakes, and ADTR. There'* now a Bonneville intake for series 2 (and hopefully 1 ) if you don't want to add holes in your airbox.
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Old 12-07-2002, 11:56 PM   #3
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All that, AND go read the articles in Techinfo on intake mods and air density.
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Old 12-08-2002, 12:46 AM   #4
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how is your car a sse but not supercharged whats mine whats a LS, SE, SSE,SSEI what are the differences and how do i get my radio steering wheel controls to work again
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Old 12-08-2002, 01:26 AM   #5
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All SSEi'* are supercharged. A very few SSE'* and SLE'* were too. It is very rare to have a supercharged SE.

The reason your steering wheel controls don't work is a matter of heat. Underneath those switches there are little rubber 'pushers' that make contact with the microswitches. They wear out, and usually fail because of heat. As they get old, they get soft. They usually fail only in a warm car....if it'* cold inside, they work, but as the car heats up, they don't work. They need to be replaced by parts from a wrecker, or replace the switch pods themselves. I have the part numbers and prices if you're interested.

Mine are in the 'cold work, hot broke' condition right now. In order to replace them, you have to disable the airbags and remove the driver'* airbag. I can walk you through the whole thing after you get the parts It'* freaky as hell holding a charged airbag in your hands. Wear a motorcycle helmet
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Old 12-09-2002, 01:53 AM   #6
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Hey Will, I'd like to know the part numbers and how to change the switches as well. I've been wondering why my controls are less responsive when warm. Now you've solved the mystery! The switches haven't failed yet but I'd like to know what to do if it does go. Messing with the airbag kind of freaks me out though...
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Old 12-09-2002, 02:22 AM   #7
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Ok...here we go. Take notes:

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery, and make sure you TIE it out of the way. You don't want it moving back towards the battery. Remove the driver'* side hush panel underneath the column, and locate the connector with all the yellow wires and markings. It should be marked airbag circuit. Disconnect it WITH YOUR HEAD UNDERNEATH THE COLUMN....just in case

Now you can get your handy dandy torx bits out and remove the screws (four of them) from the dash side of the back of the steering wheel. The airbag assembly and switches (which are attached to it) will now move. Very gently disconnect the airbag connector and horn wire. You now have the 'airbag of death' in your hands.

Getting the switches out is now a no-brainer. If your switches aren't totally shot, I'd disassemble them and lubricate the little gray rubber thingies with a light silicone grease. Don't use a petroleum-based lube. If your switches are way beyond this, you'll have to replace the pods. They come as a set.

For 1992, the part number is 16141452 at $137.07 US (almost 200 from dealer)
For 93-95 it'* 16179632 at $104.73
For 96-99 you need both 16191172 and 16191172 at $64.76 each.

All prices are from www.gmpartsdirect.com I don't suggest wrecker parts on these, as the cars generally sit in the heat, and degrade even faster than ours.
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Old 12-09-2002, 02:35 AM   #8
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You know, I think the SWC switches on the 92-95 are a poor design. The ones I had on my 89 worked great, and you could press them with normal force. The 92-95 controls appear to be Pontiac'* first attempt at SWC controls with an airbag on the same wheel.

I replaced the set on my 93 when I bought the car with brand new ones, and the RCL button is still difficult to use. The originial ones were very difficult to press.

The SWC controls on the 96-99 look like a much better design.
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Old 12-09-2002, 02:39 AM   #9
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Take 'em apart and try my teflon/silocone lube idea. Might solve the problem, and extend their lifetime!
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Old 12-13-2002, 12:59 AM   #10
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btw, Will, could you tell me if when I go to replace these switch pods, I'll be able to replace the lightbulbs for the switch backlighting as well, or are the lights embedded in the switches themselves? Right now everything works all right, but the backlighting for the switches is a lot dimmer than the instrument panel. I'm not sure if they're supposed to be that way, but I thought what the heck, if I'm going to have this killer airbag out, I might as well replace as much as possible so I won't have to do it again in the near future.

Thanks for any info!
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