Gettin blown - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-18-2004, 01:33 AM   #1
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Default Gettin blown

Howdy folks, first time posting here.

A month ago I bought a sweet 1996 SSEi (sorry, no pics yet). It'* loaded, has every option imaginable. I still haven't figured some of em out yet. Anyone know how to program the silly compas? LOL

Anyway, when I bought it the belt was off of the supercharger. It is my intent to put one on it this weekend and see if it works.

I don't know how long it has been run w/o it, but I have put almost 4,000 miles on it in about 4 weeks, and that'* my normal driving routine.

Are there any issues I should consider before putting the belt on the blower? Will it require service or lubrication before I do?

Any advise is appreciated!

Thanks

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Old 08-18-2004, 01:38 AM   #2
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Check the super charger fluid first, then see if there is any play in the super charger pulley (lift up and down, in and out) there shouldnt be any.
Next look in tech info for the cars manual, there you will find how to check the fluid level and 2nd how to calibrate the compass

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Old 08-18-2004, 02:19 AM   #3
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The compass calibration procedure itself is also a Techinfo article.

I agree with checking the oil in the SC first, as well as turning it by hand. Does it feel 'normal'?

Where do you live? You might be near enough another member to get some help and advice on this. That belt was probably removed for a reason. Those reasons usually aren't good.
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Old 08-18-2004, 02:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
The compass calibration procedure itself is also a Techinfo article.

I agree with checking the oil in the SC first, as well as turning it by hand. Does it feel 'normal'?

Where do you live? You might be near enough another member to get some help and advice on this. That belt was probably removed for a reason. Those reasons usually aren't good.
Thanks for the replies!

Can you link me to the techino section? I'm either technologically challenged today or just don't get it. Aaaargh!

The */C has no play in it, and turns freely by hand. It seems OK to me. There is a tear on the blanket that covers the underside of the hood that is obviously from a belt coming off. I'm hoping that either the only replacement belt they could find was for a N/A engine, or that they did this intentionally to be able to run cheap gas.

It ain't no slouch w/o the boost, fo' sho'! Right now I can only daydream about the extra horsepower, and the blurred, climbing numbers of the HUD.

I live in Middle Georgia. I hope there is someone nearby who knows these cars, and knows where there'* a place to turn it loose w/o saving up bail money first!?!?

Th
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Old 08-18-2004, 07:36 AM   #5
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Possible reasons for belt removal not already stated:
1) Too much thrust for previous owner (prob some one'* grandma)
2) Not big on buying premium(cheap)
3) Thought supercharger ate up thier gas mileage(stupid)

Though if willwren or PontiacDad are right then I hope all goes well for you.
The techinfo should be at the top of the page you are viewing this on. Go to it and search for compass calibration or something of the like.

Good Luck!
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Old 08-18-2004, 11:26 AM   #6
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SC eating belts, bad coupler, bad BCS or BCA, and not knowing what the problem is, unknown noise.....lots of reasons for taking a belt off.

Techinfo link is at the top of every page on the title bar.
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Old 08-18-2004, 11:35 AM   #7
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For compass calibration
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=21

for Supercharger oil.. its for a Series I.. yours is a Series II L67.. but the procedure or pretty much the same
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=22

If you're going to get belts.. I recommend you might as wells spend the extra $2 or so and get the Goodyear Gatorback belts.. they last longer and grip the pulleys better.

As for changing the */C Belt.. ensure you have the weekend off or the whole day.. cause it'* a major PITA.

You'll need to remove ( some people got away with simply loosening.. but I removed mine for the procedure ) the engine mount on the passenger side.. and you'll also need a jack and some 2x6'* to support the weight of the engine when you're removing/loosenin the engine mount.. The */C belt runs THRU the engine mount
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Old 08-18-2004, 12:26 PM   #8
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Be sure to check the idler pulleys for the supercharger and the accesory belt. There are 2 flat idlers and 1 grooved idler for the supercharger and 1 flat one for the accesories.

The bearings tend to eventually run dry and can either just be noisy or even seize with little warning. Sometimes there is enough play in the bearing, especially the idler behind the front engine mount, that it allows the supercharger belt to jump 1 groove to the outside on the crankshaft pulley. This will eventually cause the belt to fail.

Consider all of the idler pulleys as service items to be replaced. Aftermarket pulleys from companies like Gates are available in steel as opposed to the OEM plastic. Pulleys will cost about $12 each.

As mentioned above, check the supercharger oil level before putting on a belt. You can check by removing the 3/16" allen key plug on the lower end of the snout near where it connects to the supercharger body. The proper oil level is up to the bottom of the threads. Make sure you use only the proper oil from GM, it'* available in 4 ounce containers. Total capacity of the snout is about 6 ounces.

If all of that is ok and yet you hear odd noises once it'* all hooked, then post back here with more details.

Cheers,
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Old 08-18-2004, 12:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifter420
As for changing the */C Belt.. ensure you have the weekend off or the whole day.. cause it'* a major PITA.
Indeed it is quite a bit of work, I'll look for my previous posts on that and paste the info here.

Cheers,
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:24 PM   #10
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***UPDATE***

I found a guy with his own garage willing to replace my belts for $30 if I went and picked the belts up at the parts store.

When I took into account what my time is worth, it was a no-brainer. Plus, I got to get my hands greasy anyway.

When I walked in and explained to him my problem, his response was "You gotta supercharged what? This I gotta see."

Long story short it took about 3 hours, but he got it on there, and it didn't throw the belt off.

I pulled it out of the garage in a driving rain storm with tires that are soon to need replacement, and went for a R I D E !

In 2 days I've gone 605 miles. Mostly freeway. Whatta monster!

I love it. Jump on it and it GOES. You guys who say you've never done more than 95 or 100 in the other post either gotta be pullin my leg or you drive with only your little toe on the gas pedal.

Two issues guys: Evidently the */C belt has been discontinued by Goodyear. So sayeth the distributor. Also, the Autozone manager says the Gatorback belts have all been recalled (wouldn't say if it was by Goodyear or by Autozone). She had one but wouldn't sell it to me. All that was available was Kelly Springfield. I checked everywhere and made them call their distribuotrs. No dice.

The other issue is the oil in the */C. I stuck the allen wrench into the hole and wiped some off on a cloth. It'* got a brown tint to it, but looks like it might have been clear like mineral oil at one time. It smells burnt, maybe it'* just me. The */C makes no unusual noises, kicks right in, and has given me no problems so far. The oil seemed just a little bit low, maybe less than a 1/16th of an inch lower than the bottom thread on the plug hole. Should I change the oil in it? The stuff is only about $8 a bottle from the dealership.

I need excuses to visit the dealership. I keep gawking at a new Goat.

In other news, I have to have the left inside tie rod replaced. And I don't know how long it will be before the wife is allowed to drive the Bonneville again.

While it'* in getting the tie rod replaced, and an alignment, it will be time for some new tread. This is what I want what do you think?

http://www.1010tires.com/tire.asp?ti...&tiremodel=ZRi

Driver1
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