gap them to 0.60" - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-23-2005, 04:41 PM   #1
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Default gap them to 0.60"

What does this mean
Is this the angle the spark plug goes into when you do a tune up.

I'm planning on switching my ing coild to the ac delco and taking out the magnavox ICU
. I don't want to start the job and ruin my car cause I didn't know what gapping means.
1992 bonneville sse
new 180 tstat
new o2 sensor
165,000
and I love her
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Old 11-23-2005, 04:46 PM   #2
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This means on the spark plug. The distance of how far the electrode is from the metal grounding tab that the spark jumps to. The spark only has to jump .060 in our cars.
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:03 PM   #3
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Do I need to be very concous of this when putting in new plugs.
I thought you put the plug on untill it snaps on snug.
I'm guessing this is wrong.
Any rule of thumb I should know before I start
I've all the awesome write ups about subject
and they were very helpfull
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:27 PM   #4
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You check the gap between the center electrode and the side electrode as Bill mentioned, before you install the plug. The preferred tool is a spark plug gapping tool that comprises several different size wire loops. Cost you a couple of bucks at the auto parts store. You can use a disc type gauge for new plugs, but you need the wire-type for old ones. If you need to change the gap, don't put any force on the center electrode - bend the side electrode up or down as needed. Put a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the plug, and install the plug with a spark plug socket and an extension. Start the plug without a ratchet handle, just hold the extension in your hand and turn easily until the threads are started. Then use the handle to tighten to 11 ft-lbs. Make sure you keep the socket straight on the plug as you tighten. Many plugs are cracked when force is applied off-center. When the plug is in, put a little silicone grease on the inside of the end of the spark plug connector (boot) and push until you feel the boot snap on to the end of the plug. The anti-seize and the silicone grease will make the job easier when you go back to change the plugs next time.

One way to avoid trouble is to change the old plugs for new ones one at a time. That way, there is no chance of mixing up the wires which will make the motor run badly. You will also be better able to remember the angle that is needed to install the new plug. When removing the spark plug boots, give the boot a twist to break the seal on the plug before pulling on the boot to remove it from the plug. (Don'tpull on the wire; you will break the conductor or the connection to the clip.) Most auto parts stores sell a tool that looks like a bent, forked-tongue screwdriver that you place on the end of the boot and pull to easily remove the boots without damaging them or the wires. It is worth the money.
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Old 11-23-2005, 06:00 PM   #5
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man you guys are the best. thanx
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:04 PM   #6
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We do try once in a while. ....
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:12 AM   #7
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you might want to perhaps invest in a thin pair of gloves that you can still maneuever in...i know they make gloves specifically for mechanic...because rest assuered, as you are applying massive amounts of force to a plug boot to remove it...it will suddenly come off, you will have no control over it, and your hand will hit something sharp at an extreme velocity, it will hurt, you will cuss, you will scare away small children with your vulgarity, you will have scars......its worth the money.
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Old 11-24-2005, 09:14 AM   #8
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Littlehoov...twist and pull gently. Too much force is never good.
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:21 PM   #9
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well its not an issue anymore, but i was reminiscing the days i changed the wires out in the Bonneville...i dont have plug wires anymore, one less thing to wear out i suppose.
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleHoov
you might want to perhaps invest in a thin pair of gloves that you can still maneuever in.
We all learn the hard way. So it'* a good idea to wear some form of protection on your hands when trying to remove the plug wires and the spark plugs. ESPECIALLY the ones in the rear.
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