What'* the procedure here really???

Drop the 2 straps and the tank, R&R and back up into the car it goes?

Or is it something different, and are there any good short cuts?

pretty straighforward, 2 straps, remove exhaust brackets and drop exhaust down (support it, can also remove the strap by the cat to get the exhaust to lower a little more), fuel line on the pass side (easiest to remove all lines by the fuel filter), 2 rubber hoses on drivers side, wiggle out to the rear.

It'* really that easy Nate...

In 98..you will have quick disconnects by the fuel filter and won't have to lower it partially to fight anything.

A trade secret is to remove the hoses from the fillter tube on the body instead of the tank..that way if there'* fuel in the tank..the hose will keep it in the tank instead of all over the floor.

Well that is just splendid.....


My goal is to get it home and get a pump in it Saturday...Unless I can get it going sooner....I.E. after work,

If you're doing the job by yourself, and have access to a transmission jack, I highly recommend using it. It'* a forearm saver!!! I did this job last summer. It'* really not that bad.

Make sure you buy the new gasket for the fuel punp assembly from the dealer. Most replacement pumps comes with just an o-ring. They're a pain to get to seal correctly.

The factory part has metal fingers that drop into the tank and holds the gasket in place while you seal the assembly. Much easier.

Oh, and change the fuel filter while you're in there. It needs it, I promise.

Not to rain on your parade...but

I've had mixed luck on the strap bolts.. the clips they use aren't the best and being an MN car.. you might end up cutting the straps and replacing. They are about $15 each.

Mine were fine, so YMMV

YMMV?

You did one car..

I've done 4.. and out of those..1 car cooperated.

My straps were fine, too. But it was only at 115,000 miles.

To be safe, have new straps ready. If they're not necessary you could always return them (as long as they weren't special order).