Fuel Pump don't hear running and engine won't start run - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-19-2007, 10:32 AM   #11
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You should also check the driver'* side ground buss. This where the fuel pump has it'* electrical ground. Here'* a tech info article that shows what you'll be looking for. It'll be the connector with all the black wires.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=article&k=102
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Old 05-19-2007, 11:10 AM   #12
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Just got done testing the wire behind the battery. The wire connected to the green connector is red not black. There were a few other wires bundled and taped together with the red wire / green connector. I tested the open end of the red wire with the green connector.

With a jumper between the green connector and 12V + on the battery I didn't hear the fuel pump run. I did this with the ignition switch in the "off" position.

Also, I checked for continuity on this same wire. I did get various resistance measurements with the ignition switch "on" and "off".

Also, I can hear the fuel pump relay switching.

I did some tapping with the end of a broom stick under the gas tank. Someone suggested that this may jar the pump to begin operation again.

I requested the local Auto Zone to order a Bosch Pump. They recommended to change the fuel strainer and filter too.

I'll make sure I check the ground bus too, but I don't think this will be the problem since the car isn't experiencing any other faults as described. Such as power door, window, and seat failures, engine misfires, or any dash instrument failures.

It'* possible I guess that maybe only the ground bus connection for the fuel pump is corroded, so I'll probably pull the connector from under the door panel and take a quick look.

Any other possible causes or tests to perform?

I'm prepared to push the vehicle into the garage and begin siphoning the gas tank empty.

Regards,

wzvhyz4gm "95/'02 SE'*
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Old 05-28-2007, 02:02 AM   #13
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Don't know where to go from here.

I went ahead and dropped the tank, installed a new fuel pump, and it doesn't run. I took the entire sending unit / hanger assembly with pump and strainer installed and connected the electrical wiring harness without the assembly in the tank. Turned the ignition key halfway to turn on the electronics on and the pump did not run.

Does anyone know of a procedure to test power to the fuel pump? I'd like to test for power while the entire assembly is out of the tank.

If I verify there'* power then either I got a defective pump or there'* another problem besides the pump.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:18 AM   #14
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Did you check the driver'* side ground buss?

Edit - Here'* a wiring diagram. G200 is the ground buss.

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Old 05-30-2007, 03:20 AM   #15
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No, I didn't check the ground buss. I did pull the carpeting on the driver'* side, but I didn't actually check any connectors. This was after I dropped the tank.

I'll check the ground buss next.

I thought I'd jumper the fuel pump direct to the battery to check if I've got a defective pump. Do you think this would be okay to try?
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:51 AM   #16
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I'm confused. You tested the lead behind the battery and found no power correct? This means your fuel pump is not getting power.
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Old 05-30-2007, 09:25 AM   #17
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Keep in mind the pump will only prime for 2 seconds when the key is turned to on. In other words, you'll need two people to do this.
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Old 06-06-2007, 02:56 AM   #18
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When I tested the resistance at the lead behind the battery my tester was showing various readings with the ignition on and off. I had one end of the tester to the connector and one end to ground (engine block).

When I tested the new fuel pump connected to the wiring harness I had my wife turn the ignition on while I was laying under the rear of the car to hear if the pump would prime. The pump didn't run.

I didn't actually check the ground buss connector. When I pulled the edge of the carpet it was clean underneath with no signs of water, moisture, or corrosion. So, I didn't actually feel the need to check the ground buss.

Although if the new pump didn't run then like I said before either I purchased a defective fuel pump or there'* an electronic / electric problem which I would believe.

The front passenger power door lock stopped working about two years ago and the front driver door lock stopped working about a year ago. Other than that the cars electronic / electrical system is fully functional.

I vehicle is still parked in my garage on jack stands. I haven't had any time in the past week to work on it. Besides, I'm not really sure where to go from here. I'm pretty good performing mechanical work, but my skills working with the electrical system is insufficient.

When I was disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel filter to the sending unit it broke in half. All of the fuel lines are pretty well corroded. This vehicle isn't high mileage (91,000), but it was used for very short trips (2 to 4 miles) at a time. The engine very seldom ever ran at operating temperature 8-9 months out of the year. This probably increased the rate at which certain components of the vehicle deterioriated. The car was garaged most of the time.

Sorry for getting off on some personal issues.

I'm considering to have it towed to a local church member who performs auto repair services. I figured I could get an estimate and if the cost seems too great relative to my interest to continue ownership I may donate it to the church.

I'd like to confirm the troubleshooting techniques I've used so far before I make the decision to have it towed away.

I'm not confident that I tested the relay operation correctly, and I'm wondering if what some of the other members commented about a camshaft or crankshaft sensor may not be the problem. What about a short circuit in the wiring from the relay to the pump.

I need help to start from the beginning with detailed instructions concerning any checks or tests to be made electrically.

Regards,

wzvhyz4gm
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Old 06-06-2007, 11:25 AM   #19
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Ok.. first to test is the green connector behind the battery. Upon turning the key to on..you should see a 1-2 second 12+V at that connector. A test light to the connector and ground is sufficient..if you see light, then power is being supplied.

Consider if you remembered to hook up the electrical connector at the tank and also the connector inside the tank to the pump. If you have power at the green connector..and the pump doesn't run at all..then I would check both.
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Old 06-06-2007, 05:47 PM   #20
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Boosty - check the wiring diagram for his year. When the relay is energized the green connector is removed from the circuit.

wzvhyz4gm - connect a jumper from the green connector to positive battery terminal for a few seconds. Now push in the schrader valve on the fuel rail & see if fuel sprays out. If fuel sprays out then check for spark (after the fuel has a chance to evaporate). If fuel doesn't spray out then check the ground buss. Don't come close to checking it, actually check it.

PS - when you press in the schrader valve position your hands so fuel can't spray you in the face.
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