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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-24-2007, 08:02 AM   #31
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Not bad for drunk posting

Sounds like the alignment or some other item is bent. Probably a tie rod, could be inner or outter.
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Old 01-24-2007, 11:27 AM   #32
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The other day when I was putting the sway bar back on at first I could only get the bolt to barely peak through the top of the bar. I had to jack the control arm up a bit to get it through enough that I could tighten it down. Is that an indication that maybe the sway bar is bent?
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:28 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulmonger
The other day when I was putting the sway bar back on at first I could only get the bolt to barely peak through the top of the bar. I had to jack the control arm up a bit to get it through enough that I could tighten it down. Is that an indication that maybe the sway bar is bent?
Yeah, or the subframe that it is bolted to may be pushed out of shape. A good body shop that does frame work can tell you what'* up. Might save you a bunch of time if what you have cannot be brought into acceptable alignment, too. A bent subframe might also explain the steering linkage issues, especially if you cannot see obviously bent parts like tie rods. I wonder if you pushed the subframe from a rectangle to a parallelogram.
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Old 01-26-2007, 02:55 PM   #34
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If the subframe was bent could it cause the serious tilt that the tire has? A bent tie rod could explain the difference in wheel position from one side to the other, but after removing the tie rod and disconnecting the sway bar the tire still sits very tilted. What could cause that? That seems like the problem I should fix first as it may solve the other problem as well.
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Old 01-26-2007, 05:11 PM   #35
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Yes, what Bill Buttermore posted just above you could cause that, too. Everything could be knocked out of kilter. It may be time for a body or frame shop to check it out.
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Old 01-26-2007, 05:13 PM   #36
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Any idea what I should expect to pay to have it looked at? We are moving into a new house on Feb 1, and money is very tight because of it.
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Old 01-26-2007, 05:25 PM   #37
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Not for certain, no. Most places will do an estimate for very little money, or free - depending on the place. Then, you can decide if it'* something you'd be able to tackle. At least that way, you'll have a pretty good idea as to what the cause is, rather than guessing.

My daughter smacked a curb once that knocked things out of whack. I took it to a good alignment shop, and they looked it over. They started to loosen a bolt, the front end went "POP", and everything went back to where it should have been. Even they were scratching their heads as the bolt they loosened shouldn't have done that...according to them. Cost...nothing. Many good shops will do things like that, with the idea that you'll keep them in mind when you need something done. However, many body shops (at least around here) will charge a nominal fee for an estimate if it'* not going to be insurance work.
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Old 01-26-2007, 08:06 PM   #38
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Could be the knuckle moved within the strut during the impact. I'd find that sort of rotation normal after the force applied to the perimeter of the tire.

I'd check where the strut wraps around the knuckle to see which end of the adjustment it is at before I spent money on it.
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Old 01-26-2007, 08:44 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulmonger
Well the good news is that autozone did have what I needed. The terribly bad news however, after reassembling everything I started her up and tried to go only to hear loud grinding as I moved slowly forward. Nothing is touching or rubbing behind the wheel so my guess is that the axel is messed up (or at least the bearings). If you all agree then I need a detailed proceedure on replacing the axel, including any special tools I will need.
to replace the cv axle, youd need a axle nut socket, and a t55 torx bit i think, a pry bar.

it might be the hub bearing thats grinding though, i dont think the axle is bad but i wouldnt rule anything out after the amount of damage done to the lower control arm.
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:52 AM   #40
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Turns out I had a bent inner tie rod and the bracket that holds the wheel hub on the shock was moved in the impact. Loosening the bolts and applying pressure straightened everything out.

Now that I finnaly got moved into the new place and got my internet turned on, my video card is going out. Gonna have to fix that ASAP.
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