Because I do not have $80 to get one.

I have adjusted the tie rod ends (both sides) My issue now is the (camber) I think. The tired from top to bottom is is way off. It is pushed to far in-ward at the bottom. I had to replace the Out Put shaft seal and now I can't seem to get the tire back the way it was.

Any tips,things to keep in mind that would be very helpful. Thanks

You cannot do it yourself. You don't have calibrated eyes, and I doubt you can afford the required equipment. You are very likely to make it worse.

Take it in when you can afford to.

crap. So I'm pretty much stuck taking it to a shop.

ya, if you can, see if they can explain it to you (let you watch a little bit). alignments are a very precise procedure involving measuring all the angles at the same time including when the wheels are turned left to right.

I had to take the 3 bolts off under the rotor to get the axle to swing over far enough to get to Out put shaft seal. I think that is the problem. Of course I really don’t know. But before I removed all that the tire sat correctly.

as far as I know, the only things that require re-alignment are if you mess with the strut or the tie rod ends.

If all you did was remove or loosen the hub, it should have rebolted back down flush and no alignement should be needed. Take it off again and be certain nothing (rust) is preventing it from seating all the way. I would suggest a wire brush on both mating surfaces.

I'm guessing you disconnected or loosened the strut, this would need an alignment to fix.

I looked at it today. The second bolt down on the strut has a bit of an adjustment to it that I did not notice before. I didn't have time to correct it. I'll have to try and fix it Tuesday night.

Ok, I have had new tires added and an alignment. The shop said I need a new wheel bearing,which I have. I have no clue what size socket fits that huge nut. I was told it is metric, about 34-36mm.

Anyone know for sure?

I think its a 36mm.
I have been doing my own alignments for years, but then again I speacialize in Quality Control and measurement. My tires dry rot before they wear out.
I use four wood blocks and a tape measure for the toe and a 24" level and two parallel bars for camber similar to what stock car pit crews do at the track, only I have improvised gages. You have to adjust camber first then toe. Then go back and re-check again.
I do not re-commend this if your not experienced with gages.

ssebonne4eva:

I don't intend to do my own alignments (especially since I have an excellent place in town now), but once in a while up in my woods, I'll hit a rock or stump or something with my trucks and lose the toe-in badly or even ruin the tie rod.

It'd be nice to have a little more detail on your procedures, just to get a truck 100 miles down country roads to the shop safely for alignment. (if this information is too dangerous [like the world'* most dangerous joke on Monty Python ], you can always PM me.)

Thanks!