front brake rotors - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-12-2008, 01:55 PM   #1
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Default front brake rotors

I'm going to change the front brake rotors on my 1998 SLE to slotted and drilled aftermarket type. Any problems in removing the stock rotors? I've heard that ceramic pads are the way to go. Any comments?

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Old 05-12-2008, 02:44 PM   #2
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Forget drilled. They will only cost you in the long run. Slotted or smooth.

They come apart quite easily.
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Old 05-12-2008, 04:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Forget drilled. They will only cost you in the long run. Slotted or smooth.

The
come apart q uite easily.
Thanks for the info. My rotors are warped, probably from overheating and I was trying to think of some way for the brakes to run cooler.
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Old 05-12-2008, 05:09 PM   #4
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Replace both front brake lines when you do the rotors. Cheap insurance. As they age, they collapse and don't release the caliper properly, causing break 'drag' and warping.

In addition, we're under-braked to begin with. Wheel lug torque is critical. Clean all 10 front lug studs with a wire toothbrush, run the lugs in and out a couple times, and repeat. Then apply a drop or two of oil to the outer thread or two, then clean the face of the rotor hat and the inside face of the wheel. Install the wheel, and stage-torque. First to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern (every other), then to the final torque of 100.

If you value your rotors, you'll follow these steps.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Replace both front brake lines when you do the rotors. Cheap insurance. As they age, they collapse and don't release the caliper properly, causing break 'drag' and warping.

In addition, we're under-braked to begin with. Wheel lug torque is critical. Clean all 10 front lug studs with a wire toothbrush, run the lugs in and out a couple times, and repeat. Then apply a drop or two of oil to the outer thread or two, then clean the face of the rotor hat and the inside face of the wheel. Install the wheel, and stage-torque. First to 75ft/lbs in a star pattern (every other), then to the final torque of 100.

If you value your rotors, you'll follow these steps.
: Thanks very much for the advice. I never would have thought of replacing the brake hoses when installing new rotors and pads, nor did I think that lug bolt torque was so critical. RStreet3
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:55 AM   #6
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Default Warped Brake Rotors

Best way to avoid warped rotors is to adjust the rear brakes. I've tried the drilled and slotted rotors and they still warped. Adjust the brakes and install new regular rotors, you'll be fine.
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Old 05-13-2008, 12:02 PM   #7
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That is another very good point.

Most people forget the rears. Auto-adjusters do NOT work right. You need to go in there and check once or twice a year.
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Old 05-14-2008, 08:14 PM   #8
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Default Re: front brake rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by RStreet3
I'm going to change the front brake rotors on my 1998 SLE to slotted and drilled aftermarket type. Any problems in removing the stock rotors? I've heard that ceramic pads are the way to go. Any comments?

RStreet3
By the way AC/Delco has a drilled and slotted performance rotor that nobody mentions. There has been an ongoing discussion about Bendix rotors now being made in China and not as substantial as the older US made versions. Seems rotor quality has suffered with outsourcing out of the US.
Last year I installed Napa premium rotors and Raybestos "Quiet Stop" ceramic pads. In less than 8,000 miles the rotors had warped. I replaced the rotors with Brembos (that were not quite as robust as the Napa rotors) and Hawk HPS pads. It seems that some of us who installed ceramic pads in the last year had early rotor warping. We all blamed poor quality rotors; now I'm thinking that ceramic pads may have contributed to the problem. So far the Hawk HPS are quieter and stop better than the Quiet Stop pads, but it has been less than a month.
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