Fixed: Hot Air @ Dash: Air Mix? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-19-2008, 02:31 PM   #11
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Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I have a few laying around here.
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Old 04-20-2008, 12:49 AM   #12
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I finally figured out how to get it unlocked. This is going to come in useful in repairing LOOSE pins on other connectors. More about that later. I will also post some pix, etc., that might remove the mystery for somebody else.
If you missed it above, it was a broken (green) wire at pin 5 of the actuator plug.
Anyway, it is working like a champ now. Believe it or not, my wife told me she has not had AC like this in 2-3 years! We thought it was out of freon all this time, until I drove it last week. Now my wife will never let loose of her Red Sled.
Other stuff:
  • -I ended up cutting some of the duct, but stopped shy of cutting through the defroster feed pipe that goes across the bottom.
    -I used my Dremel with a cutter bit, which worked great. Took section out in 2 pieces; front section and then the back section.
    -You still need the arms and hands of a small child to get in there. Quite thankful I didn't have to take the actuator out. But it made it easier to remove the front screw in the programmer.
Getting too old for this.
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Old 04-20-2008, 01:22 AM   #13
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Once you've done it the hard way once, it takes less than 20 minutes to change an actuator. Trust me. No cutting needed at all. Either way, I'm glad you get 'er.
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Old 04-21-2008, 04:09 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93RedSled-SSE
...
-I tried moving the Air Mix arm through the little hole, using considerable force without breaking something and it would NOT move in either direction. I see on another post where you have to pop the rod off to do that. So this fact is of no value, I guess...
Actually, it is of value. If you cannot move the airmix door with the rod still attached, then the typical cracked gear is NOT the problem. Especially since you noticed no movement in the door at all when running from max heat to max cool. If the gear were damaged to the point that you see NO movement in the door, then you would have been able to move the door manually with almost no effort.

Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Once you've done it the hard way once, it takes less than 20 minutes to change an actuator. Trust me. No cutting needed at all. Either way, I'm glad you get 'er.
I'm with willwren on this one...it'* not that bad going in from the bottom.
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