1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Engine problem SOLVED !

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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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Default Engine problem SOLVED !

A long time ago I was thinking of selling the 97 Bonn sse as the engine appeared to be seized, possibly a broken rod.

Well after a long winter and a lot of work around the house we finally got back to the car.
My son jumped it and cranked it over!! I was amazed to say the least!
Closer inspection showed very low coolant, not like before being full, and the oil was nasty, with coolant in it!
What no doubt happened was there is a leak or a cracked intake manifold, it seeped fluid into the cylinder and it basically hydraulicked to a sudden stop!

I also found out that there are apparently no service bulletins out, but the dealers all know about the 97 & 98 manifolds being defective, I was told by another local mechanic...

Q. - So what would a dealer in W. Wa. charge for a manifold and gasket change? I don't have a shop to work in right now.
Yay! gonna git er back on the road!

Thanks for listening guy'*!
Gary
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 06:11 PM
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It'* EVERY year.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38

Write the motor off. You let the water sit in the crankcase for too long. Your bearings are shot.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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Default Great article!

That explains the hydraulicking, it was running and warmed up, came out a few minutes later and clunk to a cranking stop.
Well if this is caused in all years, were there any SB'* sent out?
Thanks Willwren!
Gary
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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I thought there was a TSB on it.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 08:35 PM
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It'* still a good car to drive if you get it running. I hope it works out.
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 10:24 PM
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I think busmaster misunderstood. This car sat for a LONG time with water in the crankcase. A week or two is typically all it takes to eat the bearings and crank. This engine isn't very likely to be a repair candidate.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 09:06 AM
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Agreed,

Research your best options for a motor swap. The lowest cost is probably a replacement from a wrecker/junkyard. If that is the way chosen.. take the precaution of changing the lower intake gaskets and manifold as outlined in that link from WillWren.

It'* the best defense we currently know.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 09:18 AM
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Mine only sat for about a weekend at the shop getting fixed from this failure. 6 months later, the engine blew due to internal "rot" (taking the tranny with it, lucky me).

I hate to be the next bearer of bad news, but if you want to keep her, you're better off with a different engine at this point.
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MOS95B
I hate to be the next bearer of bad news, but if you want to keep her, you're better off with a different engine at this point.
Take it from MOS....his quit at a decidedly inconvenient place and time.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 08:24 PM
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well my car ingested water everwhere ( including hydrolocked ) and basically sat for bout a year not cranked or anything.. and still running now.. mind you it'* L67.. but the idea is still the same for bearings is it not?

Well.. it comes down to which is more economical for ya. Fix it and hope for the best... or replace the motor or get a new car.
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