Engine died -won't run now - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-20-2006, 10:50 AM   #11
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It would see from what you have found that the ICM is functioning, Being that you get that momentary start, that tells me that the injectors are being rattled for the start.. So you get that brief couple of seconds and then its dead..

What you describe does sound like a bad PCM, But its really hard to say without being there to look at it.. I'd say the crank sensor can be a possibility, but usually the symptoms will be intermintent at first and worsen over time or cause an intemintent stall when warm or a no start condition( No spark or FI pulse )...

I'm leaning towards the PCM, But I can not say that for certain..


If you are looking for a cheap PCM, You will want to look at the 94-95 Olds, Chevy and Pontiac Minivans with the 3800 Tuned Port Injection V6... The 94-95 Buick LeSabre, 94-95 Pontiac Bonnevilles, 94-95 Olds 88-98.. These all have the same PCM... Try to get one from a 95 if possible

If it helps any I have been trough 2 PCM'* in 146000ish miles... The factory bit the bullet... And the Reman gave me a bit more than a year and started to stall at random, and upon starting the car( cold ) it would run for 3 or 4 minutes and then just die... Sometime it wouldn't start again..

Also I have been wonderin if you computer has any codes in it... Mainly a P1361 Mainly this means that the PCM is not taking over control...

Whats supposed to happen if the PCM does not take over is that the engine is supposed to run in Module mode, Mine did this to some degree( not very well ) and at that piont the SES light would be on... My problem was the PCM... Simmilar problem happen both times..

Like I said, and I say it a lot... If you lived near me we'd have a few parts to throw at it... Hope we see you get the problem resolved

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Old 04-20-2006, 11:43 AM   #12
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Thanks for that help, and I have some new info. Evedently the low battery condition I've had since this problem started and I ran the battery down had an effect on the problem. I left a trickle charger on it over night and tried starting it this morning and it'* back to starting up- running for anywhere from 3sec'* to a minute and then the volt gauge come'* on and it dies. Also it ran long enough 2 different times to set code P-136 (Electronic spark timing not switching after enable) and after I cleared that and it ran again for aprox. a minute it set code P135 (Electronic spark timing failure - according to my scanner) Sooo is it the ICM or PCM ??? According to the codes it'* sounding more like the ICM ??


T.B.
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:50 AM   #13
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Per Don'* info, that would point to a PCM.
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Old 04-20-2006, 12:00 PM   #14
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I'd lean towards the ICM personally. The ICM must 'hand off' control to the PCM. I don't think it'* doing that.

In addition, I think you have a bad alternator. And perhaps a battery.
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Old 04-20-2006, 01:43 PM   #15
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So you gave the battery a full charge? And the PCM and releated systems had a good 12v power supply...

I'm still leaning towards the PCM... But I could be wrong...

If you want to try an ICM you can... All you need is the ICM no brackets or coils... should be cheap at the junk yard... If its a bit too expensive for a junker unit get with Boosty... He has been forced into the junk yard parts business...LOL... I to have bought parts from him..

If that ICM doesn't correct the issue than you'll want to check the PCM

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Old 04-20-2006, 04:24 PM   #16
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I know this sounds ridiculous, but we had a very similar problem, except it would only run for a second or two. We tested all kinds of things, and finally gave up. Took it to a shop, they put a battery in it, and it was FINE! I couldn't believe it. At the risk of sounding stupid, I was unaware that the battery had to do anything once it started the car. Last month, my GMC truck did a similar thing, but it would not start at all. Cranked fine, but wouldn't run. Put a different battery in it, and it was good to go.
I rarely get that lucky, but maybe you will?.....
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:23 AM   #17
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IT LIVES!! Yep it'* finaly running. Bottom line..it was the PCM. I bought a new ICM first and no joy. Found a PCM at a local salvage yard, slapped it in and it started right up, but the #1 injector wasn't working, so I'm scratching my head wondering does this PCM have one bad injector driver circuit. Well I decided to re-check the connector on the firewall that has all the injector wires running through it. I had ohmed all the injector circuits the night before and thought I'd better check before I took the PCM back, sure enough, some how ,some way it wasn't making a connection in the connector. Did a little cleaning, hooked it back up and she runs fine now.

Thanks to everyone for all the input & assistance. We're trying to keep this thing running another year or so longer , and I have to say it'* been a pretty expensive vehicle. We just had a new transaxle put in about 4 months ago and you know they aint cheap.

Any way thanks again.

T.B.
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:21 PM   #18
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Glad to hear you got it going... They can get expensive... But when they run right they can be fun to drive

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Old 04-21-2006, 12:28 PM   #19
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Glad you got it running. I think all 92-[EDIT]95 Bonnes should come with a mechanic Trunk Monkey free of charge of course
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Old 04-21-2006, 12:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACK94SSEi
Glad you got it running. I think all 92-99 Bonnes should come with a mechanic Trunk Monkey free of charge of course
You can back that down to 92-95 bub...
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