i dont know if its such a good idea to put a drain plug into one...the only reason i say this is because once u drop the pan u can look at the magnet to see if its covered with shavings or not, it just gives u a better idea if theres any problems with the internals and such

After the mess I made when I changed my fluid, I considered tapping one of those Fram quick change plus on my pan.

Granted, looking at what'* stuck to the magnet gives you a better idea of how things are acting, it would still make it a lot easier to get to that point.

Main thing that'* holding me back is how hard would it be it ensure you have it 100% sealed, without contaminating the fluid?

Every time I service the transmission on one of my own vehicles I add a drain plug. Whether you drop the pan or not, it'* an easier job if you can drain the dern pan without unbolting it and watching ATF shoot out in at least 3 directions. They all should have come from the factory with plugs IMHO.

Likewise, if you drain and refill the transmission every 3rd - 4th oil change, you'll see chips in the fluid you drain out (if you're making them) long before you drop the pan again for another 30k - 50k filter change.

This car has almost 110k miles on it and I'm the first to crack it open. It'* running and shifting just great. If I don't find any problems now I'm probably good for a while. On the same token, since they quit putting drain plugs on torque converters, it will take me 3 - 4 fluid changes to get a respectable amount of the old fluid flushed out; which will give the whole system a nice gradual transition period from 8 year old fluid to new.

Then I'll put it on an annual drain and fill with filter changes when I feel like it. Maybe every 5 years or so (if it goes that long). With a dose of fresh clean fluid every now and again, the typical transmission will outlast the rest of the car, excluding abuse or fluid failure of course.

but thats the most exciting part!!!!

It'* not any worse that getting the pan sealed back up. I use the type of plug that has a nut on the inside of the pan, a hex head on a hollow flanged body that goes through the pan, and plastic washers on all mating surfaces. A little Red Locktite for the nut and some reasonable torque and it will seal as well as the fortyleven bolts holding the pan in place.

Of course, if you use one of the gasket sealer products on the gasket it'* not going to hurt anything to have some on a plug.

No doubt, it'* more fun than jumping in mud puddles. I'm just too old, fat and lazy to enjoy the clean up after the pretty waterfall demonstration. I also haven't liked the taste since they took the licorice flavoring out in the 70'*. I much prefer a nice stream of fluid through a relatively predictable arc into an approved drain container.

:P

when done draining what troque should i set the wrench at when i bolt it back up

thats y i do it in the work parking lot lol

So you're the one..... :?

Torque-spec is 12 ft lbs. and the bolts CAN be broken easily if overtorqued.

My friend and I were both doing fluid changes at the same time. He was using a poor quality torque wrench, over-tightened , and ended up with two broken bolts. (one broke while tightening and the other broke while re-removing all the pan bolts to replace the rest of them after the over-tightening fiasco. It had been stretched by the over-torquing and broke when trying to remove it). So, on my car, I finger-tightened all pan bolts, first, in a criss-cross fashion, then I went back and tightened the bolts in the same fashion with the torque wrench to 10 ft. lbs. Only, then, did I reset the torque wrench to 12 lbs. to tighten to final spec.

The following "Techinfo" article has specs and tips too:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...de=article&k=9