doing tranny fluid change.. hav a quest. - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-27-2006, 12:43 PM   #11
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You can get a cheap click-type, 1/2" torque wrench from Wal-Mart for $13. I compared this to a $30-40 click-type 1/2" torque wrench from Advance Auto (forgot the brand name) and I can't tell the difference. Construction and build quality is almost identical. Plastic carrying case and instruction is almost the same as well. It'* made in Taiwan, so quality wise is slightly better than made in China. BTW, Dyna-Force is the brand for the Wal-Mart product, and it'* rated 10-150 ft-lb.
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:00 PM   #12
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Princess Auto (www.princessauto.com) has a click type one for sale for $25 (10-150 ft lbs). Excellent quality, life time warranty and free re-calibration I believe. My brother used it to rebuild the engine on his 74 Vette. I just picked one up yesterday.

The closest location to you is Ottawa, though.
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94BonnieSE
i will go and do it withtout a torque wrench..i already have all the tranny fluid-
12quartst plus 1quart tranny additive..new gasket and filter.

i feel its a must becuase when i bought the car i noticed the trnny fluid was dark red..
but not black or dark.. and it didnt smell burtn..

but now.. its turned into a very dark blood red.. and i think its time to change.

i will do it my self twice..
Dark Blood Red is OK in my book. I agree with everyones advise here. Just take your time and you should be fine. The only other advice I can give you is to be careful when removing the Transmission Oil Filter. Gently rock it back an forth while trying to back it out of the hole. It you get impatient, you'll break the plastic neck off the filter(been there/done that). The transmission seal usually stays in the hole and, personally, I would just leave it there. I've heard a few too many horror stories of people trying to remove it with a screw driver and buggering up the hole where the xmission filter sits. Also, be prepared for a final "Splash" of xmission fluid when you remove the filter. The new filter goes in like the old one came out. Be Gentle. DON'T use a ball pene hammer to drive the new filter in. And make sure you clean the Pan and Magent thoroughly before you button the pan back up. When adding the new oil, start with pouring in about 5 1/2 quarts (Dexron III), make sure the engine is HOT when you check the oil level. I'm not one for any transmission additives. Also, in your case, I would not change the xmission oil again for another year. While there is nothing wrong with changing it sooner, if it shifts fine, then you'll be fine for the next year. And, if you haven't seen the write up in Tech Info, you can get step by step tactics by going here. Good Luck.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...de=article&k=9
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:12 PM   #14
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And if one is too tight (pun yes) to buy a torque wrench, one can always borrow it from auto zone, for a deposit (which you will get back upon returning the tools).
For a job that requires the likes of 10 to 12 foot pounds, might want to use an inch-pound torque wrench. I believe those are more accurate at small torques.

The clicking one is probably faster, as you just listen for the noise instead of having to watch a dial or needle. As you tighten, don't just start them all by hand then jump right to the torque, ease each one in.

And about the cork gasket - it cannot be over emphasised - they suck.
If you must replace the gasket, buy the rubber one.

If you plan on keeping your car long enough to do this job again, you might want to install your own drain plug.

Make sure and clean the magnet. It will look like a chia pet with the metal shavings and oil.. If there are actual chunks of metal stuck to it, then you have other problems. (taurus owners know all about that)
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:46 PM   #15
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Feel the torque on the bolts as you loosen them. I tighten them back to the same amount of torque. I checked one time with my full-size torque wrench. I tighten the bolts lightly all around. Then I start around tightening more each time around until I've got them up to torque in the third trip around.

Everyone has their own style.

If someone didn't mention it in this forum a large plastic kitchen storage container from KMart/Walmart type store is good to catch the oil in without splattering. I put a sheet of plastic down all around. A little breeze under the car and that stuff flies everywhere.
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Old 02-28-2006, 10:42 AM   #16
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so much info.. this is great guys.. (i think this is going to be a loooong post! )

ok so here is the score..
i under estimated how wide the container would have to be, once i got under the car
i saw what u guys meant. I looked around the house but found nothing wide enough.
i trip to walmart is a must for a tub is a must. i was going to do it anyway but, i get yelled
at for all the spilled oil.. just imagine spilled atf.

i will be able to pull the pan and clean it..but i got a corck gasket stupid cheapo
gasket kit.. (filter seems good though).. i will see if i can reuse the original gasket
if not i will install carefully and gently with the corck gasket, and go out and buy a rubber/metal gasket before next engine oil change. and do the pan drop again.

unfortunately i do not have one of these beam torques.. but it looks niiiice i want one for sure

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thanks Bill it was alot of help especially now that i know what it looks like

but as i tried yesterday i will not have any problems taking it off and putting back with
a regular torque wrench.. and as many as u mentioned it is 200% possible.

i have a few doubts tough..

Quote:
vital49 Posted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 10:15 am Post subject:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As I said above, you'll never get that much fluid out of it. The pan is holding about 5.5 quarts. The rest is in the torque convertor and lines. Only way to get 100% of it changed is to get a flush.
ok so what does a 100% fluid flush involve? is it when you flush it twice?
thanks cus i think i might have flushed twice and screwed something up.

Quote:

Ol' Timer wrote:
Dark Blood Red is OK in my book.
yeah it was darkblood red when i bought the car like 5 months and 20,000Kms ago.
its more like maroon but it still has red and the smell isnt the greatest.. kinda why i feel i must do it now since its a DYSer and up the nose with a rubber hose of the mech that gonna charge me labour 60-80$ for it!

Quote:

Ol' Timer wrote:
Also, in your case, I would not change the xmission oil again for another year. While there is nothing wrong with changing it sooner, if it shifts fine, then you'll be fine for the next year.
i wanted to do it twice, waiting 1,000kms inbetween.. is that ok?

you guys pounded how carefull i have to be with the tighting and pulling out of the filter
so i think im good from here on. ( wish i would of had the tub yesterday but i ran out of time)

thanks guys for everything.. great stuff.

ps. i will not be working on the intake gaskets and tb gasket replacement as i know even though i have the guide to it from the big a$$ bonnie bible i know i am not rdy..
i am not looking foward to the bill either but im holding it off as my car is not loosing much coolant (about 1 cm every 4-5days maybe less) and i changed the oil and noticed no milky residue as u guys described. so i guess its coolant free for now. i will post the update on the
intake reaplacement on another post.
thanks guys.
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