Despite all the good advice you guys gave......... - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-30-2007, 11:44 PM   #1
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Default Despite all the good advice you guys gave.........

So I'm not a proud man. I can admit when I'm wrong. Despite everyone telling me that I needed to get the crank turned and possibly replace the rod, I thought "What do they know?" Just cause what they said sounded right, and I knew it did, doesn't mean I should do it!

So the knock is still there, although not nearly as bad. So tomorrow i will be tearing it down to pull the crank and rod and take it to my local machinist.

Question: (I promise I'll listen this time) Can the pistons be removed and reinstalled from the bottom of the block? I look at that area in my mind eye and it seems to me that it would be difficult to get a ring compressor up in there to reinstal the pistons. I'm trying to avoid taking the top half off again which was 80% of the job.

Anyone ever done this or know if it can be done?

Also, should I replace the rings? I would assume that thier fine.

Sorry if I sound like an ingrate. What good is it to seek advice if you don't even follow it
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:48 PM   #2
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One thing about advice is that you are free to accept or reject it. I don't believe anyone will hold it against you as the one who paid the price was you.

The pistons have to be worked on from above. There was a discussion on it during Boosty'* thread while he was rebuilding his.

Edit - Here'* a link to it.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=asc&highlight
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:15 AM   #3
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you will be installing new crank and bearing you should do a honing to take the glare out of the cylinder and change the rings at the same times
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:21 AM   #4
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rehone the cylinder walls? Why? I don't understand that one.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:27 AM   #5
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Also, if I have to tear apart the top again, are the Felpro head gaskets the "one and done" kind or can I reuse them. I really don't want to have to fork out another $150 for gaskets. I know the rest are reusable. MAN I don't want to have to do this again. I can disassemble this engine in my sleep by now. Maybe this time I'll just yank the whole dang thing and put it on a stand. Probably easier.

Anyone have any questions regarding tearing down or building up this engine, just let me know. I know it by heart.
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Old 05-01-2007, 11:02 AM   #6
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Sorry to say.. you aren't putting the piston in through the bottom.
There'* too much odd surface down there
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It'* top or nothing. And personally..it stings..but I'd never resuse a head gasket, or head bolts.
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Old 05-01-2007, 11:47 AM   #7
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You have to pull the heads to pull the pistons and you must replace the head gaskets. You could just replace one head gasket to pull the bad rod, but you won't save much and you won't be able to break the glaze or clean the lands unless you pull the pistons.

Here are some cost estimates for you from http://www.rockauto.com Head gaskets are $16/ea, the head bolt set is $22, and figure $12 to ship it, so for that part, you can git'r done for less than $70. If you didn't use a lot of rtv silicone to install them and you are careful disassembling, you should be able to re-use the LIM gaskets. If the block is stripped my local shop will charge about $35 to install new cam bearings and about $15-$20 to install a new balance shaft bushing. The bushing is about $6, and the cam bearings are $14. Now you are up to $145. Have them check the rod that spun and true it or replace it if need be. That should not be more than $50. A crank kit is $155, and figure another $35 for shipping, so that'* about $385. $50 to tank clean the block and another $65 of stuff you forgot comes to $500.

You break the glaze on the cylinder walls to produce a 60 degree cross-hatch (light scratching). These scratches hold a little bit of oil and provide lubrication for the rings to minimize wear on both the walls and the rings. Check the end gap on the rings - you will probably not need to replace them. Clean the lands so the rings can move freely.
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Old 05-01-2007, 11:58 AM   #8
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Bill, Boosty, & Archon (aka, Moe, Larry, & Curley (not necessarily in that order)) speak the truth. There ain't no gettin' pistons back in without removing the heads. And, frankly, I'd yoink the engine completely out to do the task you intend to accomplish. But that'* just me. I like easy access to my projects.
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:11 PM   #9
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Birch...you should see how Stan aka Nutjob decided he had to open the hood on his car...lol

I do agree with Nutbag though, having recently done a bit of work to my car.. it'* much easier to work out of the car than in.
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birchymm
Maybe this time I'll just yank the whole dang thing and put it on a stand. Probably easier.
I don't think you can install a crank without pulling the engine. And, even if you could, you surely would not want to. Pulling the engine is the only way to go. Seriously consider having a shop tank clean the block, and install new cam and balance shaft sleeve bearings while there. They can even hone the cylinders for you for not a whole lot of $.
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