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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-22-2007, 06:36 PM   #1
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Default Dead....

I got a question guys for the past cpl of weeks my car has been dieing and they say its due to the alternator only producing 11 volts instead of the standard 14 thus draining the battery. But when i've started it up my battery has been at mid ranged on my gauge. Anyone know if there is some sort of electrical issue or is it really just my alternator?
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Old 04-22-2007, 09:15 PM   #2
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Default Re: Dead....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snuggles.bf
my car has been dieing
I never had a Volt Meter in my GM Cars so I don't know what the "mid-range" of your gauge reads. I think it should read near 14 Volts when you're cruising down the road. Has anyone checked the Battery to see if you have dead cell? And what exactly do you mean by "my car has been dieing"? What are your symptoms?

Is the Alternator Light On?
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Old 04-22-2007, 09:16 PM   #3
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you need an altenator. I had that in the 1992 and ended up driving home in the dark, with only my hazard lights on to navigate, that was fun.

Id get that checked out before you end up with my situation. Theyre not all that expensive.

goodluck
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Old 04-23-2007, 11:25 AM   #4
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could it also be the battery? i remember reading somewhere else in here that running with a bad battery is really bad for your alternator

i've been having a similar problem, my lights will dim at idle, and if i rev it, they brigten back up. my volt gauge is in the red before i start, and it goes erratically between the red part and 14 throughout a drive..it tends to drop at idle.

so two people might end up being helped by this post
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Old 04-23-2007, 11:36 AM   #5
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A: The volt gauge should read higher than "mid-range". As mentioned, a lot closer to 14 (might drop when stopped for a light due to draw), but with the csr in park at idle close to 14.

B: Plan on changing the battery and alternator. A bad battery can kill an alt, and vice-versa.... Head to AutoZone or such to get both tested and/or replaced
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Old 04-23-2007, 02:11 PM   #6
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Gosh I hate it when we agree John..

I'm with John 100%.. drive over..get both tested. You will then know and be able to fix the issue and be back up to 100% soon.
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Old 04-23-2007, 02:20 PM   #7
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I'll X3 what John said.
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Old 04-23-2007, 07:01 PM   #8
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thanks guys but the weird thing is i replaced both my battery and alternator last year, not 8 months ago. Although i did get a remanned alternator. Supposidly its only producing 11 volts which i think is what is killing me. Due to me using my battery mostly over that 8 months it wasn't replenished properly causing me to have a dead battery. I dunno thats what makes the most sense to me. But i have a question would i most likely be screwed as far as getting a semi-refund on that damn Remanned alternator? Im pretty sure they have records of me purchasing it mid july. Anyways thanks for the info.
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Old 04-24-2007, 09:33 AM   #9
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Testing is free and parts can be bad when you buy them. If the alternator has a lifetime warranty and it'* bad...they will hand you one.

This much I do know..if you keep questioning a free test etc. w/o getting it done. You will be enjoying a nice walk to the parts store.
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Old 04-25-2007, 10:49 PM   #10
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ill second that... when you buy a part once, it should work for its estimated life. 5-7 yrs this is what ive always heard on altinators.

Parts can come bad. I.E...i bought my rotors once in october, and they warped too soon so the GM guy replaced them for free.

good luck
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