Cruise quit working and won't shift down to 1st gear - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-22-2006, 07:11 AM   #11
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Thanks Archon, couldn't find my DMM last night, will have to look for it this weekend. Took off the TPS and everything looked peachy in there. At least I know it'* easy to change out if need be.

Might just pick up a TPS before I go home tonight since I'm 30 miles out of town.

Jason
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:07 AM   #12
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Nice sharp image. You must have a good camera.

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Old 09-22-2006, 10:19 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitetrash
...I found mouse droppings in the car the other day and wonder if they are nesting in the intake and some nesting or something caught the "flap" of the sensor?
Check your wiring harness. Mice often chew through wires and cut them.
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Check your wiring harness. Mice often chew through wires and cut them.
I saw last night when I was under the hood that the wiring harness leads to the firewall under a black cover. Does it connect to something at the firewall or does it go through and under the dash. Just wondering if I'm looking under the dash too or just under the hood.

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Jason
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:43 AM   #15
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Phooey Thanks for the correction Bill. I had copied that over from my other post and had to edit the caption for the pic. Just wasn't paying attention. Will go back and correct original post.
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Old 09-22-2006, 11:23 AM   #16
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I would just look where there is evidence of mice. There is a big bulkhead connector that tightens with a bolt between the engine and the interior. Makes it nice when you have to pull the engine.

BTW, re TPS wiring, my '95 FSM shows a black sensor ground wire on terminal "C," a dark blue signal output wire on terminal "B," and a gray 5V reference wire on terminal "A." Just like Archon said. Must not have changed from '95 -'99.
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Old 09-22-2006, 11:50 AM   #17
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Correct voltage and testing procedure should be in Techinfo.

Watch the mutimeter for dead spots as well.
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:29 AM   #18
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Didn't have the Techinfo(?) but followed the instructions for testing from Mike1995 and found the reference voltage to be OK at 5.01 but when doing step 7 there was a readout of .01 and I didn't have a second person to slowly depress the accelerator (or the knowledge of how to from underhood) but would .01 at idle be too low?

Thanks for all the help so far.
Jason
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:32 AM   #19
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yes, if i remeber right it should be something like .74-75 volts?
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitetrash
...I didn't have a second person to slowly depress the accelerator (or the knowledge of how to from underhood) ...
You can turn the throttle plate assembly with your hand from under the hood. Just grab onto the part where the cables attach and twist.
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