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Old 08-05-2003, 12:35 AM   #1
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Default Cruise Control Conversion?

Ok i have a 94 SE that has cruise probs (proly a vac line, havent really looked hard) Is it possible to replace this module with an electronic one from newer years? And even the multifunction switch? cause i like the way my mom'* 00 buick'* multifunction works better than mine.... is it even possible or should someone just slap me?
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Old 08-05-2003, 12:10 PM   #2
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Default Re: Cruise Control Conversion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmsgaffer86
Ok i have a 94 SE that has cruise probs (proly a vac line, havent really looked hard) Is it possible to replace this module with an electronic one from newer years? And even the multifunction switch? cause i like the way my mom'* 00 buick'* multifunction works better than mine.... is it even possible or should someone just slap me?
*slap*

They've been electronic since the early 1980'*. Even my in-laws' '84 Regal could do perfect 1-mph increments up or down when you either tapped the Resume/Accel slider (to increase) or tapped the button on the end of the turn-signal lever (to decrease).

What sort of cruise problems are you having? Sometimes the very thin wires break inside their insulation where the wires have to jump the gap from the steering column to the multi-function switch. If the car falls out of cruise mode for no apparent reason, see if you can provoke that by wiggling the turn-signal lever as you're cruising. If the cruise turns off when you do that, replace the little wiring harness leading to the multi-function switch.
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Old 08-05-2003, 12:43 PM   #3
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no its like i Set a speed and it holds it untill i go uphill then it gradually falls off (but i know its still on because when i switch the unit off i can feel it let go.) Well what i ment was arent the new ones non-vacuum controlled? So theres like no lines to collapse? (Or am i just completly clueless, which is very possible) . Now how hard would it be to put in a newer multi function switch?
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Old 08-05-2003, 03:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmsgaffer86
no its like i Set a speed and it holds it untill i go uphill then it gradually falls off (but i know its still on because when i switch the unit off i can feel it let go.) Well what i ment was arent the new ones non-vacuum controlled? So theres like no lines to collapse? (Or am i just completly clueless, which is very possible) . Now how hard would it be to put in a newer multi function switch?
Upgrading the switch itself seems a little pointless; it'* the hardware behind the scenes that the switch operates that is the main thing. If you put a newer multi-function switch on, with a wiring harness different than what you have, you won't be able to connect it. If you put on a switch that does have a matching wiring harness, your problems may or may not go away depending on where the current problem is.

From what you describe, it sounds like it can't accelerate when it needs to. Does the Resume feature work to accelerate after a stop? (Note that the system is not armed until you reach 25 mph.) You might have a borderline vacuum situation, maybe due to a partially-clogged exhaust that'* screwing up your intake manifold vacuum levels.

Sounds like the problem is like you suspected, a problem under the hood. Rather than go to all the trouble of trying to figure out how to install a non-vacuum system, if one exists, you should be able to figure out what'* wrong with the one you've got in a lot less time.
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Old 08-05-2003, 03:48 PM   #5
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Yeah thats what i was thinking i should do. The only reason i wanted to upgrade the switch is because the one i saw looks a lot better with my trim than my current one does and it doesnt feel like its gonna break like my current one does. But yeah ill start checking things....
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Old 08-05-2003, 04:20 PM   #6
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The only reason i wanted to upgrade the switch is because the one i saw looks a lot better with my trim than my current one does and it doesnt feel like its gonna break like my current one does.
Yes, they can start to get a little loosey-goosey over time, but it'* usually fixable. What happens is that the mounting screws connecting the lever to the turn-signal switch can back out a little bit, and although it'* only very slightly loose, out at the far end of the lever, that movement is magnified into some major flopping around. It'* not the switch that'* loosening up; it'* just the screws that hold it in.

If you pull the wheel and the lock plate, you'll have access to the mounting screws for the turn-signal lever. You will need a steering-wheel puller and a lock plate compressor to do this, although once you have the tools, you can have it all apart, tightened up and reassembled within 15 minutes.
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