Crank, No start help... - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-08-2007, 12:42 PM   #11
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Ok so I am getting ready to change that crank sensor but have had no luck finding this alignment tool - tried all the parts stores and even the GM dealership - can this be done without the tool to align it? any advice on that?
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:28 PM   #12
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I don't have an alignment tool, and I have done plenty of these. I think the procedure is similar with the Series I as it is with the Series II described for you here. (?)

Jack up the car, support it safely and remove the RF wheel and inner splash shield.

If you do not have an impact wrench, you will need to remove the plastic flex-plate covers (10mm-head bolts). If you don't have the special tool to hold the teeth, (I don't) slip a big bolt or round shaft phillips screwdriver through one of the holes in the flex-plate on the front side of the engine. The bolt will jam against the block as you turn the crank counterclockwise and hold the crankshaft in place. Then you can break the big bolt on the pulley with an appropriately heavy six-point socket and handle. When I have to do them without the impact wrench, I use a long extension and a jackstand shimmed to be level with the crankshaft to keep the socket straight as I apply force with a 4-ft long cheater handle. Set the handle at about 10:00 O'Clock and stand on it. Even the tightest ones come off with that kind of torque. Name:  Im000356.jpg
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When you get the bolt out, you will need a puller for the harmonic balancer. IIRC, the bolts are 6mm x 1mm and about 75 -80 mm in length. The thread pitch is so close to 1/4" x 24 that, I believe those will work, too. (I am not certain about the pitch and length, so hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong.) Check that the notched interrupter rings are in good shape on the back side of the balancer. They should be straight (parallel to the axis of rotation) and tightly attached to the pulley. Bent or loose tangs will instantly destroy the crank position sensor. When the balancer comes off there will be a plastic cover that snaps off and onto some special bolts. When this is pulled off, you can undo the bolts and replace the sensor. Sounds like either the cover or the bolts were loose on yours. Also, make sure the outer pulley is still tightly bonded to the hub. If the rubber isolator comes undone, or tears, that will cause trouble, too.

Here, you can see a portion of the plastic cover exposed at about 10:00 O'Clock.
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Below, the cover is snapped off, and the sensor is seen at about 3:00 O'Clock.
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Old 02-09-2007, 10:54 AM   #13
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Thanks guys car is all good now. It was the crank sensor, it was all chewed up. Fired right up after replacing it.
Thanks for all your help and Bill that was a great post bud it helped me quite a bit having the pictures to go with what you were saying helped me understand it easier. I appreciate as always!! =)
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