Crank/no start - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-14-2006, 03:35 PM   #11
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You need close to 30 psi for any kind of reasonable running. After swapping out a fuel tank it took 30psi before the car fired.
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Old 03-14-2006, 03:41 PM   #12
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OK, then I suppose it could be just the FPR. If it is, I got the buy of the century on this fine Bonneville! I posted about it in the Introduction section, so you guys can know a little background on me and the Bonnevilles. I'm 33, and wasn't around for the 1st two my father purchased. I've put many, many miles on Bonnies since 1988.
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Old 03-14-2006, 05:20 PM   #13
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Just a lil footnote on the VATS system...on models with the transponder that is visible on the key itself, The VATS system doesn't even allow the motor to even turn over. It kills all systems needed for operation of the motor. Usually there is a chime associated with the activation of VATS as well as the security light.
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Old 03-14-2006, 07:54 PM   #14
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OK, I got a new FPR. On this one, under the screen, there'* a very small o-ring. If I try to install the FPR with the o-ring on, I can't compress it enough to get the snap ring on. I was able to install it without the o-ring. When I turn the key, it will initially go up to around 50 psi. It immediately starts bleeding down at a rate of maybe 2 psi every 3-5 seconds (pretty fast). I n less than a minute, it'* back to zero. OK, so maybe I have a problem there, but when it'* reading at least 40 psi while cranking, I believe it should start. It didn't even TRY to start at all. Again, I know this is fuel related because I pulled a plug, and it'* not wet. I have verified that it has good, strong spark. What say ye both on the FPR issue, and the no start?
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Old 03-14-2006, 10:52 PM   #15
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If I understand things correctly, if the crank sensor was bad, I wouldn't be getting spark at all, right? I'm most definitely getting spark.

I checked the fuse for the injectors under the passenger side dash, and it'* good. I checked all the other fuses that might be related, too.

Any help on that FPR issue, and my no start condition? Thanks!
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Old 03-15-2006, 09:38 AM   #16
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TTT
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Old 03-15-2006, 09:44 AM   #17
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BS62, I'm hoping someone who has changed their FPR or has more experience with it can chime in on this, as I haven't done mine and therefore am not familiar with the o'ring you mention. IMO, that is something you should revisit. I am pretty sure that o'ring is there to seal the unit and keep the vacuum.
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Old 03-15-2006, 09:45 AM   #18
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10pm and bumped at 9am? People sleep occaisionally.

If the crank sensor is bad..you can still run on the 3x pulse and while you may not have peak performance...it'll still run good.
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Old 03-15-2006, 09:54 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
10pm and bumped at 9am? People sleep occaisionally.

If the crank sensor is bad..you can still run on the 3x pulse and while you may not have peak performance...it'll still run good.
I felt my post slipping away...

So it will start and run with no crank or cam sensor signal, right? I'm concerned with either the fuel pressure or injector pulse, as I've seen the big blue spark with my own 2 eyes. When I pulled a plug after repeated starting attempts, it smelled of fuel, but was not even remotely wet. I'm going to do a compression test today. Still looking for ideas. Thanks!
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Old 03-15-2006, 10:12 AM   #20
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To keep the post current for ya...

It really only takes, spark, fuel and compression. Combined with the proper timing of a spark.

You aren't holding the pedal to the floor are you?
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