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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-02-2006, 10:24 AM   #1
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Default Cracked radiator

Hey yall. I havent posted in a while about any problems with the car as most problems ive had you guys have solved in the past. This place is the best! Well I finally have a problem that I know the solution but I would still like yalls advice on.

The plastic part of my radiator has cracked down most of the plastic part on the drivers side. The car is now parked as coolant leaks out almost as fast as it does from the drain hole when its open. My question is that should I use

GMPD #
Description: RADIATOR
Part #: 52462554
Categories:
Collision > ENGINE > COOLING


Series One Performance #
Spectra Premium Radiator

Part #93SPRAD30

WITHOUT engine oil cooler, WITHOUT low coolant temp sensor.


Autozone
TRANSPRO 432017

The first thing Im gonna do is take some JB Weld and try to patch up the crack so that maybe it is usable for the time being. I know i could always get one at the junk yard but Id rather not risk getting one that is clogged or has a leak or whatnot.

Thanks for all yalls help in the past and for any help you guys can give me now with this.

Sam
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:01 AM   #2
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I just changed the radiator in my 93. The original had a nice crack down the side of the tank.

You probably could put some JB weld on it to patch it and milk it along for a few months, but the correct fix is a new radiator. Depending on where the crack is, you'll probably have to remove the radiator to properly prepare the surface. Might as well put a new radiator in there and make your mess only once. I used a plastic welder on mine and it held for maybe 3 months. I installed an aftermarket radiator (I think it was Chinese) and it was about $150. Works fine.

As for which radiator to choose from the above list, from my perspective as the resident tightwad, I'd go with the least expensive unit.
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Old 11-02-2006, 11:42 AM   #3
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I agree wot motorhead. Go witth the least expensive one.
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Old 11-02-2006, 01:32 PM   #4
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When I was looking for a radiator..I found there are many online sources.

They ship superquick and prices are great.

I think radiatorexpress.com is one.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:29 PM   #5
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Just a heads up. I replaced the radiator in my 92 SE this past weekend and used one from Autozone. The one that I got first (according to their system it was for a 92) was too narrow. I ended up getting the one for a 91 and it fit fine. The 91 was about 2~3 inches wider. If I remember correctly mine was about 32 inches wide and the first one I brought home was only 29 inches.
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotten
Just a heads up. I replaced the radiator in my 92 SE this past weekend and used one from Autozone. The one that I got first (according to their system it was for a 92) was too narrow. I ended up getting the one for a 91 and it fit fine. The 91 was about 2~3 inches wider. If I remember correctly mine was about 32 inches wide and the first one I brought home was only 29 inches.
IIRC our radiators have never been 29inches in width. Makes you wonder who entered the part numbers in their computer systems.
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Old 11-02-2006, 04:00 PM   #7
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Probably the same kind of people who are often behind the counter. Folks who can use a computer, but have limited car knowledge.
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Old 11-03-2006, 11:51 AM   #8
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This is probably a little late, but hereí* a few tips that may increase the joy of your radiator replacement:

1.Open the box to your new radiator before you start. My new radiator had plugs for the transmission lines and all the other openings in it. You can use these on your old radiator to help reduce the mess when you pull it out. i.e., when you pull a transmission line, use one of the plugs from the new radiator to stop transmission fluid leaks. I discovered these plugs after I pulled my old radiator and had coolant and transmission fluid over every inch of my garage.
2.Jack up the right side (passenger side) of the car only. The radiator drain is on the left side of the radiator and this will help prevent coolant from running all over the subframe.
3.Remove the right fan completely. This will give you good access to the transmission line connections, low coolant sensor (if equipped), and the lower radiator hose clamp. There are only 3 screws, an electrical plug, and a wire loom clamp to yoink and the fan comes right out the top.

BTW - Boosty sez he can change a hot radiator in 9.47 minutes without disconnecting any hoses or lines. I think he was BSín me.
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:37 PM   #9
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BTW - Boosty sez he can change a hot radiator in 9.47 minutes without disconnecting any hoses or lines. I think he was BSín me.

No way. Unless he launches the car off a cliff.[/quote]
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Old 11-03-2006, 01:58 PM   #10
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Let'* stick to the topic guys. (lines and hoses are required)

To change in 9.47 minutes
Put large catch pan under lower rad hose.
Pull lower rad hose at rad.
Pull upper rad hose at rad
Undo trans lines
Undo oil if applicable
Remove coolant level sensor if applicable.
Remove the 4 bolts on the radiator cover that holds it in.
Lift up and out.
Put new in and reconnect, refill and bleed.
The key to doing it warm is not to get coolant on yourself.

Oh..snap... that was 9 minutes flat.
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