Cracked radiator
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Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 66
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From: Mcallen TX
Cracked radiator
Hey yall. I havent posted in a while about any problems with the car as most problems ive had you guys have solved in the past. This place is the best! Well I finally have a problem that I know the solution but I would still like yalls advice on.
The plastic part of my radiator has cracked down most of the plastic part on the drivers side. The car is now parked as coolant leaks out almost as fast as it does from the drain hole when its open. My question is that should I use
GMPD #
Description: RADIATOR
Part #: 52462554
Categories:
Collision > ENGINE > COOLING
Series One Performance #
Spectra Premium Radiator
Part #93SPRAD30
WITHOUT engine oil cooler, WITHOUT low coolant temp sensor.
Autozone
TRANSPRO 432017
The first thing Im gonna do is take some JB Weld and try to patch up the crack so that maybe it is usable for the time being. I know i could always get one at the junk yard but Id rather not risk getting one that is clogged or has a leak or whatnot.
Thanks for all yalls help in the past and for any help you guys can give me now with this.
Sam
The plastic part of my radiator has cracked down most of the plastic part on the drivers side. The car is now parked as coolant leaks out almost as fast as it does from the drain hole when its open. My question is that should I use
GMPD #
Description: RADIATOR
Part #: 52462554
Categories:
Collision > ENGINE > COOLING
Series One Performance #
Spectra Premium Radiator
Part #93SPRAD30
WITHOUT engine oil cooler, WITHOUT low coolant temp sensor.
Autozone
TRANSPRO 432017
The first thing Im gonna do is take some JB Weld and try to patch up the crack so that maybe it is usable for the time being. I know i could always get one at the junk yard but Id rather not risk getting one that is clogged or has a leak or whatnot.
Thanks for all yalls help in the past and for any help you guys can give me now with this.
Sam
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Certified GM nut
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 2
From: West Point, Utah - Village Idiot
I just changed the radiator in my 93. The original had a nice crack down the side of the tank.
You probably could put some JB weld on it to patch it and milk it along for a few months, but the correct fix is a new radiator. Depending on where the crack is, you'll probably have to remove the radiator to properly prepare the surface. Might as well put a new radiator in there and make your mess only once. I used a plastic welder on mine and it held for maybe 3 months. I installed an aftermarket radiator (I think it was Chinese) and it was about $150. Works fine.
As for which radiator to choose from the above list, from my perspective as the resident tightwad, I'd go with the least expensive unit.
You probably could put some JB weld on it to patch it and milk it along for a few months, but the correct fix is a new radiator. Depending on where the crack is, you'll probably have to remove the radiator to properly prepare the surface. Might as well put a new radiator in there and make your mess only once. I used a plastic welder on mine and it held for maybe 3 months. I installed an aftermarket radiator (I think it was Chinese) and it was about $150. Works fine.
As for which radiator to choose from the above list, from my perspective as the resident tightwad, I'd go with the least expensive unit.
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Central Arkansas
Just a heads up. I replaced the radiator in my 92 SE this past weekend and used one from Autozone. The one that I got first (according to their system it was for a 92) was too narrow. I ended up getting the one for a 91 and it fit fine. The 91 was about 2~3 inches wider. If I remember correctly mine was about 32 inches wide and the first one I brought home was only 29 inches.
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 26
From: Enfield, CT
Originally Posted by ccotten
Just a heads up. I replaced the radiator in my 92 SE this past weekend and used one from Autozone. The one that I got first (according to their system it was for a 92) was too narrow. I ended up getting the one for a 91 and it fit fine. The 91 was about 2~3 inches wider. If I remember correctly mine was about 32 inches wide and the first one I brought home was only 29 inches.
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,606
Likes: 2
From: West Point, Utah - Village Idiot
This is probably a little late, but here’* a few tips that may increase the joy of your radiator replacement:
1.Open the box to your new radiator before you start. My new radiator had plugs for the transmission lines and all the other openings in it. You can use these on your old radiator to help reduce the mess when you pull it out. i.e., when you pull a transmission line, use one of the plugs from the new radiator to stop transmission fluid leaks. I discovered these plugs after I pulled my old radiator and had coolant and transmission fluid over every inch of my garage.
2.Jack up the right side (passenger side) of the car only. The radiator drain is on the left side of the radiator and this will help prevent coolant from running all over the subframe.
3.Remove the right fan completely. This will give you good access to the transmission line connections, low coolant sensor (if equipped), and the lower radiator hose clamp. There are only 3 screws, an electrical plug, and a wire loom clamp to yoink and the fan comes right out the top.
BTW - Boosty sez he can change a hot radiator in 9.47 minutes without disconnecting any hoses or lines. I think he was BS’n me.
1.Open the box to your new radiator before you start. My new radiator had plugs for the transmission lines and all the other openings in it. You can use these on your old radiator to help reduce the mess when you pull it out. i.e., when you pull a transmission line, use one of the plugs from the new radiator to stop transmission fluid leaks. I discovered these plugs after I pulled my old radiator and had coolant and transmission fluid over every inch of my garage.
2.Jack up the right side (passenger side) of the car only. The radiator drain is on the left side of the radiator and this will help prevent coolant from running all over the subframe.
3.Remove the right fan completely. This will give you good access to the transmission line connections, low coolant sensor (if equipped), and the lower radiator hose clamp. There are only 3 screws, an electrical plug, and a wire loom clamp to yoink and the fan comes right out the top.
BTW - Boosty sez he can change a hot radiator in 9.47 minutes without disconnecting any hoses or lines. I think he was BS’n me.
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Posts like a Turbo
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 476
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From: Sacramento CA
BTW - Boosty sez he can change a hot radiator in 9.47 minutes without disconnecting any hoses or lines. I think he was BS’n me.
No way. Unless he launches the car off a cliff.[/quote]
No way. Unless he launches the car off a cliff.[/quote]
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 26
From: Enfield, CT
Let'* stick to the topic guys. (lines and hoses are required)
To change in 9.47 minutes
Put large catch pan under lower rad hose.
Pull lower rad hose at rad.
Pull upper rad hose at rad
Undo trans lines
Undo oil if applicable
Remove coolant level sensor if applicable.
Remove the 4 bolts on the radiator cover that holds it in.
Lift up and out.
Put new in and reconnect, refill and bleed.
The key to doing it warm is not to get coolant on yourself.
Oh..snap... that was 9 minutes flat.
To change in 9.47 minutes
Put large catch pan under lower rad hose.
Pull lower rad hose at rad.
Pull upper rad hose at rad
Undo trans lines
Undo oil if applicable
Remove coolant level sensor if applicable.
Remove the 4 bolts on the radiator cover that holds it in.
Lift up and out.
Put new in and reconnect, refill and bleed.
The key to doing it warm is not to get coolant on yourself.
Oh..snap... that was 9 minutes flat.