I've had the tail light 'light' on my dash on for some time. It'* just been too damn cold to change it. So I finally changed the lights that were out, but the indicator light still tells me one is out. I made sure all my lights are working, but still nothing. Any ideas?

Also, I've been driving around w/ my stock rims all winter. When I first put them on I noticed a bit of a knock, that was barely audible but I could feel it through the floor a bit. It'* been almost two months and its getting louder. I can't notice it while I'm accelerating, but its definately there while I coast. What could that be?

Hey, Bret. I feel your frustration. The light monitor can be a bitch sometimes. Usually if it says taillight, it'* one of the 194 lamps. There'* some in each of the 4 sections. Double check them again, but ALSO check your licence lights. They'll trigger a taillight error.

That thunk you're describing sounds like the beginnings of the hub/bearing failure. Welcome to the club! I think I have 3 going. Might as well do all 4. Give us a few more details. Pick some good weather, check it in turns with the window down. Jack up the car and wiggle/shake all four......you should be able to track it down.

Mmmmm.....hub/bearing failure....so fun.

I had my whole front basically go BOOM after a month of owning my car. Replacement sets you back some much needed dinero.

Set you back a bit eh? How much did it cost? Were the parts expensive or was it the labor?

The RF bearing on my car cost about $120. I changed it myself. I didn't have a knocking problem. On mine the speed sensor, which was inside the bearing, went bad.

Bret, the front assembly is pn 7470511 ($172.21)
and the rear is 7470541 ($205.03). These prices are
from gmpartsdirect, but I've heard 130 is a good price
at some auto parts stores. Someone that'* done this will
have to step up here. I need the info too.

NOTE: 1992 uses a different rear, and these part numbers are
for cars with ABS. All years use the same front, but numbers
change without ABS. (for future reference).

120.00 from National Auto parts with ABS.
THE WORK IS HARD!!!
My screws would not come off of the assenbly. Very hard to get off . Once I had the screws out, the damn thing was stuck ! It might be worth getting someone to do it unless you have the time. The worst thing was that my problem is still there!!!
Al I can say is on a good week-end , take the wheel off and leave the car on stands . SOAK the assembly with some kind of liquid wrench and let it sit over night and ATTACK the very next morning !

I remember having to rent a large drive-axle socket for the drive axle nut. I also remember using a crow bar to get the old bearing off once the bolts were all removed. And you have to be very careful that you don't stretch or damage the axle.

One of my buddies heard the knocking, and he thinks it may be a CV joint. Sound possible?

Possible, but not as likely as the hub/bearing assembly. Is the boot torn? Grease all over? CV odds would be higher if that were the case. How'* the light monitor?